LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

oil pan leak

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Old Apr 8, 2003 | 11:30 PM
  #1  
windnsea00's Avatar
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From: la jolla, ca
Unhappy oil pan leak

hey guys, i recently noticed i have an oil pan leak. i have an autoshop class and was able to locate the leak. its frusturating since this just started leaking 2 weeks ago, about a week after i replaced my intake manifold gasket since that was leaking. does anyone have directions how to drop the pan and put a new gasket in without pulling the engine or taking apart the subframe. if not, also has anyone had any estimates or had the gasket replaced at a shop, how much did u pay? thanks for your time.
Old Apr 9, 2003 | 12:34 AM
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windnsea00's Avatar
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From: la jolla, ca
anyone??
Old Apr 9, 2003 | 12:48 AM
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Did my oil pan gasket about 6 weeks ago, really not too bad of a job, pan doesnt have to come out, just lowered to remove old gasket and install new one. Do a search for "oil pan gasket" in this fourm, there is a lot of good tips out there. Just dont make the mistake I did........ remove low oil lever sensor from pan before dropping it so you dont break the sensor off on the oil pick up tube.
Old Apr 9, 2003 | 09:58 AM
  #4  
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From: Del Valle, Tx, U.S.A
For the oil pan, drop y pipe and remove starter (after you disconnect battery). Also , remove oil sensor from pan like stated above. Now, remove all bolts from oil pan. You don't need to remove motor mounts and jack motor up no matter what anybody says. The oil pan will not be able to be removed but will drop and give you a couple of inches to work with. Pull the old gasket out and clean the mating surface the best you can. The trick to putting the pan gasket on is the flexibility of the new gasket. There are metal rods in the staright parts of the new gasket but the ends (half circles) are flexible. Slide the new gasket between the frame and bottom of oil pan, almost like it's in place but underneath the oil pan mating surface where it needs to be. Try and keep the gasket as clean as possible though. Now that it is basically in place, pull on one side of the gasket to wrap around the edge of the pan and put it above the the pan mating surface and engine block like it should be. Once one side is in place, do the same to the other side. Once both side are in place, put some black RTV (not too much) on both top and bottom of half circle parts of gasket for a little reassurance. Bolt the pan back into place, not forgetting the retaining plates that go on outside of pan. Bolt up y pipe and starter and you're done. Took me a whopping 30 minutes start to finish. Good luck,

Kyle
Old Apr 9, 2003 | 10:02 PM
  #5  
windnsea00's Avatar
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thanks a lot for the info guys.
Old Apr 10, 2003 | 12:35 AM
  #6  
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Kyle explained it better than I could of, actually he helped me the most when I was doing my gasket, appreciate the help.
Old Apr 10, 2003 | 01:00 AM
  #7  
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From: St. Louis, MO
I'm paying one of my friends to do it for me, I didn't feel like doing that one, especially with long tubes in the mix.
Old May 6, 2003 | 10:46 PM
  #8  
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From: Bloomfield Hills MI
Will hooker longtubes make it harder to replace the oil pan gasket?
Old May 6, 2003 | 10:51 PM
  #9  
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From: Albuquerque,NM--5,600 feet above you sea-level cats
I wouldn't think so, be then again, I've never replaced the oil pan gasket while the motor was in the car.
Old May 6, 2003 | 11:19 PM
  #10  
97 RedSS's Avatar
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From: Dallas,TX
No they wont..I put my new oil pump and canton oil pan on while the motor was in the car..

Cody
Old May 6, 2003 | 11:21 PM
  #11  
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From: Arlington, VA
Originally posted by vodoo-chile
For the oil pan, drop y pipe and remove starter (after you disconnect battery). Also , remove oil sensor from pan like stated above. Now, remove all bolts from oil pan. You don't need to remove motor mounts and jack motor up no matter what anybody says. The oil pan will not be able to be removed but will drop and give you a couple of inches to work with. Pull the old gasket out and clean the mating surface the best you can. The trick to putting the pan gasket on is the flexibility of the new gasket. There are metal rods in the staright parts of the new gasket but the ends (half circles) are flexible. Slide the new gasket between the frame and bottom of oil pan, almost like it's in place but underneath the oil pan mating surface where it needs to be. Try and keep the gasket as clean as possible though. Now that it is basically in place, pull on one side of the gasket to wrap around the edge of the pan and put it above the the pan mating surface and engine block like it should be. Once one side is in place, do the same to the other side. Once both side are in place, put some black RTV (not too much) on both top and bottom of half circle parts of gasket for a little reassurance. Bolt the pan back into place, not forgetting the retaining plates that go on outside of pan. Bolt up y pipe and starter and you're done. Took me a whopping 30 minutes start to finish. Good luck,

Kyle
You should drain the oil first, and don't forget to put it back in

I'm a smarta$$, I know!
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