Oil cooler questions....
I'm swapping in a 94 (out of an auto car) engine in a 93 (auto) car. The 93 car has an oil cooler, but the 94 one does not. At least, it didn't come with the engine. The question is, should I install the oil cooler from the 93 on the 94 engine or not? The 93 engine has a cracked rod and I don't know if I want to reuse a part like this on the new engine...
Thanks!
Thanks!
Re: Oil cooler questions....
Originally posted by madwolf
I'm swapping in a 94 (out of an auto car) engine in a 93 (auto) car. The 93 car has an oil cooler, but the 94 one does not. At least, it didn't come with the engine. The question is, should I install the oil cooler from the 93 on the 94 engine or not? The 93 engine has a cracked rod and I don't know if I want to reuse a part like this on the new engine...
Thanks!
I'm swapping in a 94 (out of an auto car) engine in a 93 (auto) car. The 93 car has an oil cooler, but the 94 one does not. At least, it didn't come with the engine. The question is, should I install the oil cooler from the 93 on the 94 engine or not? The 93 engine has a cracked rod and I don't know if I want to reuse a part like this on the new engine...
Thanks!
youll like it much better cause youll be getting rid of more crap under the hood
just like ripping all the tree hugger crap off the car
youll have just that much more room under the hood to work
Re: Re: Oil cooler questions....
Originally posted by InjectedSS
hells NO!! get rid of that POS! i ripped mine out and dont regret it one bit! i heard tooo many horrer stories about them clogging up etc. just bypass it. all you have to do is run a hose from the bottom of the radiator to the bottom of the waterpump. basically just where the two hoses connected before. also you'll notice that the hoses are a lil bit bigger than the other so what i did was got one of those plastic hose converters that lets you go from one size to the other and i just tied the two hoses together with that.
youll like it much better cause youll be getting rid of more crap under the hood
just like ripping all the tree hugger crap off the car
youll have just that much more room under the hood to work
hells NO!! get rid of that POS! i ripped mine out and dont regret it one bit! i heard tooo many horrer stories about them clogging up etc. just bypass it. all you have to do is run a hose from the bottom of the radiator to the bottom of the waterpump. basically just where the two hoses connected before. also you'll notice that the hoses are a lil bit bigger than the other so what i did was got one of those plastic hose converters that lets you go from one size to the other and i just tied the two hoses together with that.
youll like it much better cause youll be getting rid of more crap under the hood
just like ripping all the tree hugger crap off the car
youll have just that much more room under the hood to work

Any more opinions? I'll take it off if it won't hurt anything for sure...
I had an oil cooler on mine. Never had a problem with it, but it took up space and I never fully trusted it.
Sold it for $115 shipped on Ebay, w/ 93k miles on it.
As for the hose, I simply bought a hose that fit the radiator, and forced the other end onto the waterpump.....it will fit.
Sold it for $115 shipped on Ebay, w/ 93k miles on it.

As for the hose, I simply bought a hose that fit the radiator, and forced the other end onto the waterpump.....it will fit.
I wouldn't use it either.
That hose is 5/8 on one end, and 3/4 on the other.
'engine bypass hose' GM p/n 10197675
Also the Goodyear Hi Miler kit has it [even though it's for 95-7's]
2 lengths of heater hose, with a reducer coupling sounds fine.
That hose is 5/8 on one end, and 3/4 on the other.
'engine bypass hose' GM p/n 10197675
Also the Goodyear Hi Miler kit has it [even though it's for 95-7's]
2 lengths of heater hose, with a reducer coupling sounds fine.
Originally posted by Mtrhds94Z
I wouldn't use it either.
That hose is 5/8 on one end, and 3/4 on the other.
'engine bypass hose' GM p/n 10197675
Also the Goodyear Hi Miler kit has it [even though it's for 95-7's]
2 lengths of heater hose, with a reducer coupling sounds fine.
I wouldn't use it either.
That hose is 5/8 on one end, and 3/4 on the other.
'engine bypass hose' GM p/n 10197675
Also the Goodyear Hi Miler kit has it [even though it's for 95-7's]
2 lengths of heater hose, with a reducer coupling sounds fine.
sweet beauty now i gotta order that bish up
learn something new everyday i tell ya!good call on that one
I just used a 5/8 hose. I took my knife an chamfered the end that had to go on the 3/4 fitting and them pushed really hard....
Alot of people theake them off, I did but then I installed an oil to air cooler.
hey madwolf have you found dyno time to tune my car yet? I was expecting a call this week.
Alot of people theake them off, I did but then I installed an oil to air cooler.
hey madwolf have you found dyno time to tune my car yet? I was expecting a call this week.
I had my factory oil cooler cost me a motor. It clogged up resulting in loss of oil pressure. i now run a earl's cooler. Pretty much the same thing the older oil cooled porsche's ran. Its setup the same way as the radiator in the car just a little smaller. Dropped my oil temps anywhere from 40-60 degrees, then the water temp dropped about 15
One theory as to why my 97SS spun a bearing with less than 8K on the clock is that the SLP optional oil cooler clogged up with crap and
boogered my oiling. Just a guess, but when I looked at the cooler after engine removal there was actually metal shavings in there.
Of course, it's the chicken and the egg thing i.e, which happened first, the cam had knicked bearings and subsequently clogged the cooler, or the cooler was easily clogged after a period of normal break-in debris?
At any rate, is seems that when you change your filter, you should also clean the cooler or else you don't get all the crap out.
Just a theory.
boogered my oiling. Just a guess, but when I looked at the cooler after engine removal there was actually metal shavings in there.
Of course, it's the chicken and the egg thing i.e, which happened first, the cam had knicked bearings and subsequently clogged the cooler, or the cooler was easily clogged after a period of normal break-in debris?
At any rate, is seems that when you change your filter, you should also clean the cooler or else you don't get all the crap out.
Just a theory.
Originally posted by BUBBA
At any rate, is seems that when you change your filter, you should also clean the cooler or else you don't get all the crap out.
At any rate, is seems that when you change your filter, you should also clean the cooler or else you don't get all the crap out.
BTW, I hope we are all talking about the same factory oil cleaner and that there is not more than one oem type oil cooler out there. Like Bubba's mine was a factory option through SLP.
Originally posted by gb95zconv
Its a worthless POS....get rid of it. Get a real oil cooler if you want an oil cooler. I just used a 5/8 hose to bypass with.
Its a worthless POS....get rid of it. Get a real oil cooler if you want an oil cooler. I just used a 5/8 hose to bypass with.
So you just by pass the lines that run to the oil filter and leave the unit where the oil filter was or do you remove it. Could someone clarify for me. I don't understand how it clogs when it's just antifreeze running into and out of the block connected to the oil filter, unless I got something backwards.
Originally posted by JAFO1994
So you just by pass the lines that run to the oil filter and leave the unit where the oil filter was or do you remove it. Could someone clarify for me. I don't understand how it clogs when it's just antifreeze running into and out of the block connected to the oil filter, unless I got something backwards.
So you just by pass the lines that run to the oil filter and leave the unit where the oil filter was or do you remove it. Could someone clarify for me. I don't understand how it clogs when it's just antifreeze running into and out of the block connected to the oil filter, unless I got something backwards.


