After a mix up of events and bad weather my 383 Stroker is finally home.
It all started about a year ago when some dumb a** pulled the intake manifold and heads with out draining the coolant. Needless to say my pistons became a lake bed. I wiped the water out as fast as I could but still didnlt feel confident putting it back together. I wanted a rebuild so I talked to a bunch of local shops that didn't know jack about LT1's. They all wanted to try this and that, that didn't make sence to me so I decided that I was going to have it done right. I shipped the block to Nick Morris at Nue-Tek motorsports. "I want in on your GP." That easy. I shipped the block out and it was there in 3 days or less. I started out only wanting the lower rotating assembly. It was dam near done and I decided to change the cam on Nick and I paid the price. The cam went on order and I waited. Finally the came came and i had more money to spend so I said why dont you add the Oil pump, Stud, pick up. I waited for that as well. I went back and forth on that subject a few times and decided it was best to leave that up to the Engine builder just to keep it safe. In the mean time I shipped an LT4 intake to Jet hot. The coated it and shipped it to Nue-Tek.
The motor was ready for shipment when I started asking about heads. I had a new credit card this time and decided to add the AFR 210 Comp Heads. I waited a long time. 6 weeks or more. Nick called AFR and they made the CC to big. I was thrown back into the waiting list for my heads. Finally Nick got a good set of heads to finish up the project.
I now have an all Forged 383 Stroker with Flat top pistons. Comp 1.6 RR and hardened pushrods, Comp cam, Coyles timing chain (double roller) Canton Oil Pan and a new SFI Flex plate.

The bill would be rather shocking to pay all at one time but when you break it down over a year it's not that bad. I had money to spend a new K member annd upper and lower A arms by BMR, Extream Duty Torque are, C5 Corvette brakes up front, Moser 12 Bolt rear end with 3.42 gears and a 700 E Maga Raptor from PATC.

Now I may have to paint the Engine bay before the Enging goes in. I still need the SFC welded and the Torque arm brace welded in as well. I'd like to get some braided brake lines for the front and back calipers but there is no set to cover C5 front and LT1 rear. Hooker LT's are finally going to be installed. Im sure ill have a bunch of questions and answers in the near future.
AS for noy i game on with my Motor Install.

I want to thank Nick, and Jill for putting up with all my phone calls and questions. Thank you for being agile as well as all your hard work. I'd do it again just not the same way I did it the first time.

My next project is a friend S-10 Blazer. Its getting and LS1.
My girl friend and I are also looking into rebuilding a 69 Chevy truck with possbbly an LS1 as well.

 

Sounds like a good setup.

What cam did you go with?

I forsee a lot of bald tires in your future.

 

Grip
When I put the Opti on do I have to put the ENG at TDC or does it mater?

 

I just read an article about Nu-Tek in Camaro Performance Magazine, they had NOTHING but great things to say about this place and the workers! They said that his professionalism and quality of work are 2nd to none. Also he inspects every part that goes into the engine even thought it's brand new, just to double check, from what I got out of this article, this would be the only place I would send my LT1 to become a 383 if I was to send it anywhere!

Congrats on your new 383 Supermo!


Now, let's see some dyno #'s!

 

It doesn't matter as long as you match the key. It only goes on one way.

 

Grip Thanks for the Opti Sparkr for Dummies review. What radiator are yo running?

 

Stock one but I have to drive with the heat on FULL in the summer time with 3 bottles of water wetter to keep it from overheating.

I'm getting a Charged Air unit right away actually.

http://chargedair.com/

All the turbo buick guys love them.

http://www.chargedair.com/xc/customer/home.php?cat=12

 

I was not sure what is better Charged Air or Be Cool? I know the Be Cool cost more. I have talked to Charged Air and they said they have atleast one ready to shipp. I may have to wait till you get it to see how you like it.

 

I have a friend with an 11 sec Buick GN. His car was almost over heating and now it runs more normal with the Charged Air unit.

I'm going with Charged Air because the guy sounds like he knows what he's talking about.

 

'95's don't have a key, but a slot on the back of the opti where the pin on the cam goes into.

 

forged 383

what kind of forced induction do you plan on?

 

Out of curiosity, what did that cost you?

Ben

 

Just be careful and make sure the keyways are aligned correctly on the opti and the motor side. It's "supposed" to only go on one way, but sometimes it's a bit difficult to stab the opti back on the motor and hit the keyway correctly. And it will go on even though the shaft is not aligned in the keyway, with just a little push. Basically, if you have to force it at all, then it's not lined up correctly.

 

I don't have the total bill yet because I have been paying off parts of the bill at a time until it was finished. I know the AFR 210 Comp ported heads were $2595.00. I think the total would be around $10,000.00 but I'd have to get back to you.

That is NOT counting the New Opti, all new sensors, electric H2o pump, Torque Converter, bolts for the odds ad end stuff externel motor, 58M TB, LT4 intake coated at Jet Hot, Lokar Dip stick, LT4 Valve covers, exhasut gaskets, Hooker LT's, Muffelx Y pipe, 42 SVO injectors, and what ever else I may have over looked. I do have all my paper work in a folder so I will post when all is said and done.

 

Do you know what they charge just to do a short block?

Ben