Now I am worried...
Now I am worried...
After the cam/heads/exhaust my car doesnt feel right. I only took it around the neighborhood because its not insured yet. When I put it in gear to start moving the rpm's drop below idle (normal) but I get a backfire. While accelerating, it doesn't feel like it has the power there. I didnt go above 3k but it doesn't seem like a big difference, maybe even lost power. I scanned the computer and my long term blm's are 140-150 left and 108 right while my short term are staying around 128... left side likes to go up a bit while the right side likes to go down a bit. I am worried that my plugs may not be making a good connection at the opti from the crimping or maybe I spilled coolant on the opti taking the waterpump off? I really don't know what to do because I don't get any SES codes or anything. The car just feels like its stuttering, it idles a little high too... target is 875 from the pcm4less tune and its staying at 1,000.
Re: Now I am worried...
Originally posted by Rodrigues
After the cam/heads/exhaust my car doesnt feel right. I only took it around the neighborhood because its not insured yet. When I put it in gear to start moving the rpm's drop below idle (normal) but I get a backfire. While accelerating, it doesn't feel like it has the power there. I didnt go above 3k but it doesn't seem like a big difference, maybe even lost power. I scanned the computer and my long term blm's are 140-150 left and 108 right while my short term are staying around 128... left side likes to go up a bit while the right side likes to go down a bit. I am worried that my plugs may not be making a good connection at the opti from the crimping or maybe I spilled coolant on the opti taking the waterpump off? I really don't know what to do because I don't get any SES codes or anything. The car just feels like its stuttering, it idles a little high too... target is 875 from the pcm4less tune and its staying at 1,000.
After the cam/heads/exhaust my car doesnt feel right. I only took it around the neighborhood because its not insured yet. When I put it in gear to start moving the rpm's drop below idle (normal) but I get a backfire. While accelerating, it doesn't feel like it has the power there. I didnt go above 3k but it doesn't seem like a big difference, maybe even lost power. I scanned the computer and my long term blm's are 140-150 left and 108 right while my short term are staying around 128... left side likes to go up a bit while the right side likes to go down a bit. I am worried that my plugs may not be making a good connection at the opti from the crimping or maybe I spilled coolant on the opti taking the waterpump off? I really don't know what to do because I don't get any SES codes or anything. The car just feels like its stuttering, it idles a little high too... target is 875 from the pcm4less tune and its staying at 1,000.
From what your data masters numbers are saying is that your basically running lean. i do think you need to check your plugs and wires and make sure they are in securely. if you spilled water on your opti then you pretty much fried it then and need toreplace it. but i would do the easy stuff first and then do the expensive stuff. My friend had a car that would pop and backfire through the exaust wen you gave it gas...Is that what your is doing?.
I'm not sure how you come to the conclusion its running lean, when the BLM's are split so severely..... its adding (almost) max fuel on the left side and pulling max possible fuel on the right side.
Do the BLM's remain split over a wide range of "Cells"? What are they at idle (Cell 16)? What are they in the low load/low rpm cells? In the high load/high rpm cells?
You've got a major problem causing the split, and you need to resolve that before you go any further. How big is the cam? What TB are you using? Do you have any scan data.... e.g. IAC counts might shed some light on the idle problem, and be related to the split BLM's.
Do the BLM's remain split over a wide range of "Cells"? What are they at idle (Cell 16)? What are they in the low load/low rpm cells? In the high load/high rpm cells?
You've got a major problem causing the split, and you need to resolve that before you go any further. How big is the cam? What TB are you using? Do you have any scan data.... e.g. IAC counts might shed some light on the idle problem, and be related to the split BLM's.
That was just a minor problem, ill go download the datamaster file off my lap top... Maybe somone can take a peek at it...
Originally posted by ACA Performance
guys, rod and i were talking earlier and we were talking about egr. he hadnt plugged the egr vacuum on the intake manifold. so i told him to go try and plug that. he put his finger over it and said it lowered the idle
so maybe that took care of the idle situation, just throwin info out
guys, rod and i were talking earlier and we were talking about egr. he hadnt plugged the egr vacuum on the intake manifold. so i told him to go try and plug that. he put his finger over it and said it lowered the idle
so maybe that took care of the idle situation, just throwin info out
Well I got the data.... Heres the actual datamaster file if anyone has the time to look at it
http://kak.com/camaro/Cam.uni
Heres a few pics of the log
http://kak.com/camaro/Specs.jpg
http://kak.com/camaro/codes.jpg
http://kak.com/camaro/Cam.uni
Heres a few pics of the log
http://kak.com/camaro/Specs.jpg
http://kak.com/camaro/codes.jpg
I took a look at some of your data master files and I see what your talking about. I had this happen to me, I had a pretty much cut plug wire and it gave me split blm's. Also i see you have a data trouble code(dtc) being thrown. Find out what that is by double clicking on it and a table will come up telling you what it is.
I scanned it again, if you click on it, it will try and open it in a web browser, just right click and "save as" then open it in excel.
http://kak.com/camaro/Camshaft.csv
http://kak.com/camaro/Camshaft.csv
Last edited by Rodrigues; Apr 10, 2003 at 02:18 PM.
Doesn't look good... after all that idling, the coolant temp never got over 156degF, and for some reason it isn't going into closed loop - that's why it only has Cells 16, 17, 18. That temp should be high enough to put it in closed loop. The BLM's are worst (160-L, 108-R) at idle, so it looks like a problem with idle air distribution, or something else that happens mainly at idle that is causing the huge split BLM's.
How big is the cam? You are only getting 15" vacuum at idle. Odd thing is when you start to open the throttle (record #682) MAP decreases.... vacuum increases.... very odd.
Both RPM and IAC are too high.... something is forcing it to idle way too high, and its not the IAC control loop.
Was the ambient air temp really only 44degF?
I'll look some more.
How big is the cam? You are only getting 15" vacuum at idle. Odd thing is when you start to open the throttle (record #682) MAP decreases.... vacuum increases.... very odd.
Both RPM and IAC are too high.... something is forcing it to idle way too high, and its not the IAC control loop.
Was the ambient air temp really only 44degF?
I'll look some more.
Go over your work again. Check your wires and firering order......Could be miss firering, also reset your valves ......How did you set your lash to begin with??? Your valve train could be too tight or too loose....my guess is too tight. Too tight you lose power and it will sound like a misfire cuz a valve is staying open that will also mess with your vaccum and idle. Also check your vaccum line make sure everything is ok. If ya need help shoot me a email and i will give you my cell and if ya need me to look at it i have the time. Keep us posted. Steven
Alright... I might take you up on that. Is it possible for the valve adjustment to cause the lean and rich banks?! Is it safe to drive this car at all? It can drive like a normal car and doesnt feel too bad. Rev's fine and everything.
The cam is an XE 224/230 on a 112 lsa, not a very big cam...
Injuneer: Only ran the car for about 5 mins or so until it went into closed loop to try and keep the neighbors happy. The car did however go into closed loop, about 10 seconds after it hit closed loop I started recording the data. Whats are my possible scenerios? Why don't I get a SES light for such a big problem? I scanned my car before the heads/cam/headers and it was running rich then, but not split.
Valve Lash: I set my valve lash by finding where the rod stopped spinning for the appropriate 8 cylinders, then going 1/2 turn past that. Then repeated this for the other 8 once i gave the engine 1 full rotation. Are you able to set the valves from two positions of the engine?
The cam is an XE 224/230 on a 112 lsa, not a very big cam...
Injuneer: Only ran the car for about 5 mins or so until it went into closed loop to try and keep the neighbors happy. The car did however go into closed loop, about 10 seconds after it hit closed loop I started recording the data. Whats are my possible scenerios? Why don't I get a SES light for such a big problem? I scanned my car before the heads/cam/headers and it was running rich then, but not split.
Valve Lash: I set my valve lash by finding where the rod stopped spinning for the appropriate 8 cylinders, then going 1/2 turn past that. Then repeated this for the other 8 once i gave the engine 1 full rotation. Are you able to set the valves from two positions of the engine?
Originally posted by triumph
Go over your work again. Check your wires and firering order......Could be miss firering, also reset your valves ......How did you set your lash to begin with??? Your valve train could be too tight or too loose....my guess is too tight. Too tight you lose power and it will sound like a misfire cuz a valve is staying open that will also mess with your vaccum and idle. Also check your vaccum line make sure everything is ok. If ya need help shoot me a email and i will give you my cell and if ya need me to look at it i have the time. Keep us posted. Steven
Go over your work again. Check your wires and firering order......Could be miss firering, also reset your valves ......How did you set your lash to begin with??? Your valve train could be too tight or too loose....my guess is too tight. Too tight you lose power and it will sound like a misfire cuz a valve is staying open that will also mess with your vaccum and idle. Also check your vaccum line make sure everything is ok. If ya need help shoot me a email and i will give you my cell and if ya need me to look at it i have the time. Keep us posted. Steven
Last edited by Rodrigues; Apr 10, 2003 at 05:57 PM.
As for the adjustment . I hope you mean set 8 rockers rotated the crank then the other 8 ........you could be off also you need to set them again after the engine warms up as the lifters will pump up and now your off. could be your problem?? once your lifters pumped up it made them to tight and it will cause all kids of problems and no ses light . You might get a SES light after prolonged running. Steven


