My 97 lt1 hasn't been starting for a few months now. In the fall it would start the first time and only click after that. I would charge the battery and it would start again. Then suddenly the car would not start...the first time or after.

I had the battery tested and it tested fine. All the connections are good. The car will start by push starting so I thought it was the starter, but I finally got a chance to take the starter to Autozone and it passed the test. I realize sometimes they test ok and aren't, but I'm also wondering if testing the starter also tests the solenoid?? I was certain that being able to push start it would be bypassing the starter and therefore indicating the starter as the problem. I've been dragging my feet, but I'd like to diagnose this before pulling the engine for use in another car. Any ideas? Thanks

 

Have you verified that there aren't any accessories putting a parasitic drain on the battery?

 

no I haven't exactly. the car was totalled two years ago and I had no problem until about this past september. the battery is disconnected each time so I don't think it would have a chance to drain.

 

There is a grounding strap that connects to the coil stud, check that connection on both ends!

 

Had the samething happen to my sons ta it was the solenoid. Put in a new one and fix the problem.

 

Jump the ignition terminal on the solenoid to the starter and see what happens. If the solenoid engages then your ignition switch may be worn enough where it does not make good contact.

 

For me - same symptoms, weak (but not dead) battery.
Try another battery... At the time i was convinced my battery was fine...

 

does the Autozone test check the solenoid also or just the starter itself? I'm tempted to buy a new starter anyway since the engine is going in a street rod I may as well have some new parts for a fresh built car.

SS RRR how exactly do I go about doing that?

I'm not hearing anything but starter/solenoid, battery, connections, ignition switch...is that all it could be?? Thanks

 

You can buy a remote starter switch from an auto parts store that has two allegator clips that you can connect to the two terminals on your solenoid/starter. Doesn't matter which way they go as long as one is on the positive terminal and the other is on the ignition terminal (I think the ignition wire leading to your ignition switch is purple). Just make sure your car is in neutral and the e-brake is on. No need to have the key in or anywhere around the ignition.

The starter switch looks something like this:

 

Does the voltage just die or drop when you turn the key? I had a problem with a ground to the engine and instead of looking for it I made a new one with 0 gauge power wire.

 

not exactly sure how your autozone tested the battery. but if they just use a volt meter that is an absolutely useless way to test the battery. It needs to be fully charged and tested on a machine that gives it a good draw and tests the voltage to see if it drops or not. You also said that the battery was unhooked. well. Did you take it out of the car and put it in the house? Or did you leave it outside in the car for the winter? If you left it outside it very well might have frozen. And charging a frozen battery pretty much uh kills it. I have the same symptoms in mine. Charge the battery, car would start fine, let it set 2 days battery would not start the car. I would just get clicks. Charged it again.. same cycle. checked draw, (and there was a slight tiny little draw from the Voltage LED on my capacitor.... Less than would normally be found on the car anyway.. I don't have any computer stuff in mine) But that wasn't the problem. The last time it did it the battery would not even take a charge. Still says it has 10.1 volts (was 11.8 when it just clicked) But it refuses to charge anymore. So I figure one or more plates has grounded or something and the battery is toast. It will start fine with any other battery I have. So I ordered up an Excide Oribital Battery. Pretty much just like the Optima redtop... only about 50$ cheaper.

Cliffs...

1. Just because they say it is good does not mean it is. really depends on the test they do
2. remove battery and try a different battery known to work

*edit* oh yea.. and the volatge on the battery would go from 11.8 volts (enough to start a car) to 5 volts at the turn of the ignition key. Now nothing has changed on my car except it sat over winter, with the battery in the car.

 

autozone tested the starter not the battery. the battery was tested by a shop up the road from me that I use often. The starter was tested by autozone in their bench tester.

the battery was stored inside over the winter, but could have been in the car once recently and froze. I hadn't realized that would be a problem though. I don't have guages in the car now and I don't remember what the volt guage was reading...I'll have to plug the guages back in and check. What all will a change in volts indicate besides the battery? anything?

I have suspected the battery all along since it was starting once then not again 10 seconds later...it seemed to get weaker and weaker over a month or two now the battery on a "fresh" charge won't start it. Could very well be the battery or I thought something else could have been it (starter going out over time for example...they don't just crap out all the sudden right?). I'll have to find another battery that hooks up the same way so I can eliminate the battery for sure I guess. Thanks

 

i like that starter switch...I might buy that anyway just to play with haha...thanks SS RRR

 

Voltage won't neccessarily tell you the battery is dead. It needs to put out a certain amount of amps at the apropriate voltage while cranking to be good.
You can go buy a battery, try it and return it if it doesnt work

 

Take the battery to Autozone and have them test it. The device they use puts a damned good draw on it.