Went to the track friday night and im not to please with the results. I have he LE1 cam and heads with larger valves.

Ran a best of 12.8 @110. 1.9 60'

Before LE1 setup i had a 218-224 cam and stock heads and i was running very similar times.
I was thinking my MPH should be a lot higher, if the LE1 package makes the numbers claimed, i should be trapping 4-5 mph higher.

Couple questions, i think my problem may be in my tune or just my driving. I have a mail order tune from madwolf. I plan on getting a dyno tune very soon. For now, if i send him a datalog of one of my runs can that help him write a better tune?

Also, my plugs are are NGK TR-6s. I gapped them at .050 becuase thats what i was told to do. With a little searching it looks like they should be gapped around .035 to be one heat range cooler than stock. Could this be hurting me much?


Any thoughts?

 

I would say you need to get it on a dyno before anything. I wouldn't even run a car until I tuned it for the fact of being disapointed like you.

Also your plug gap is off I think it should be .035-.040 depeding on what else you are doing.

 

Ditto,

Gotta get it tuned and on the dyno. Track times are relative to the car and driver, not the motor itself. It's not just a brainless act to actually get the car down the track faster. I've jumped into someones car and gone out and run a faster time down the track than they do.

Trying to wring a car out at the track on street tires always seems pointless to me. The thing is not going to hook very well with 4.10's and street tires.

What RPM are you shifting at? What RPM you drop the clutch at?

Bret

 

I am running BFG drag radials, traction isnt really the issue, sub 2.0 60' while not fast are some what decent. I am shifting around 6200 on the stock tach, i have no idea how accurate it is. the time is not what im worried about, the mph just seems low, but i know that will likely improve with a dyno tune which i am hoping to have done within the next couple weeks.

One of my big questions is do i need to worry about those plugs where they are gapped, is that hurting me any?

Also any thoughts on getting a 52mm TB? I have been told i dont need one and that i do. I am reading about 90 kpa on the map at WOT, does that mean anything?

 

Shift at 6600 on the tach and I bet your trap will increase a good bit. They are usually off by about 400 rpms, and if you are shifting at 6200, thats probably not even the peak on that setup. Go to at least 6200 real rpms, I'd wager almost 4 mph more.

 

Before you rule anything else out, have a hardcore experienced driver drive your car down the track for a couple passes. Then you know where you need to go from there

 

I think a dyno will tell all.


I was getting very similar times that i am getting now when i had a smaller cam and stock heads. While i will be the first to tell you im not the best driver, i dont think i got completely horrible all of a sudden.


I am really not complaining about the heads/cam combo, lloyd knows what he is doing and it been proven time and again. I think it is in the tune, kind of hard to tune a car by just giving cam specs.

The track is at an elvation of 1200' and it was humid and probably 65*

I probably should have titled the post, "not happy with my outing at the track."

 

jchevy can drive, this is his third 4th gen LT1 he has frequented the dragstrip with. I watched him make the runs last night and every shift was precise and quick.

I can't drive and can rip of mid 12s at 113mph with unported heads and a cc306. We were both expecting his car to whoop mine in both et and mph. His combo is said to be good for 370-390rwhp, and I have dynoed 350rwhp. Thats where the "not happy with the H/C results" comes from. If I'm not mistaken, he ran 108-109mph at the same track before the heads with just a 218/224 XE cam. Yes, its probably the tune, but we figure he is only making between 330-340rwhp as it sits. The tune is good, the car runs and idles great. Its just gonna take a dyno tune to get the HP out of his combo.

 

Man you got to drop the hammer on that thing 4 or 5 k at least

oh yeah i will send you my addy for the cam card

 

Justin Price ran 12.1's at 110 MPH with his base mail order tune and just be getting some data logs and a dyno sheet to teh tuner he was able to run 11.7 at 116 MPH. That is a pretty good increase by just doing a "better" tune. just a couple off degress of timing and a lil less/more fule up top can really make a difference in HP, ET and MPH.

Could be other things holding you back but I would start with tuning. If you can not gt any hands on tuning, at least get an updates mail order tune to get things a lil closer.

Other than tuning (A/F and timing) valve adjustment, shift RPM, fuel pressure while going down the track, etc. are all things to consider. I agree, the 60 ft time is pretty descent and is not holding you back by 3-5 tenths like a 2.2 60 ft time would. It is not costing you 3-5 MPH either. You should be trapping 114-116 MPH when all is right.

Lloyd Elliott

 

I just checked your sig . . . . . do you have 30lb injectors? I did not see them mentioned.

Lloyd Elliott

 

Yeah, i have the 30lb injectors.

Any ideas if the TB could be holding me back, if so how much?

Valves should be good, i adjusted them with the car running, just tightend them by hand till they stopped clacking then went another 1/4 turn. They are factory replacement lifters.

I just got ahold of the local guy that Im gunna have do my tuning, should be getting the dyno tune done this upcoming saturday morning.

I really think this is part tuning issue, and part me not being used to running the car with this cam, i could have been shifting early.

 

I am not sure hopw far the stock tachs are supposed to be off but you will probably get the best results by shifting this at 6200-6300 RPM or so. I would think that this is gonna be about 400-500 higher than where the XE 218/224 was shifted at.

I would expect 15-20 HP from the cam alone and another 30-40 from the heads. You would need the bigger TB, 1 3/4 headers, cut out, good exhaust, GOOD tuning, etc, to see ALL of that gain but even with the mods you mentioned, we should be 40-45 HP over the stock heads and old cam.

The rockers would be better at 1/8 or so but I do not think that is what is causing the ET or MPH difference. If you ahve time or wanna do the rockers again, there might be a lil more top end in it with a looser adjustment.

If you can get some hands on tuning and make adjustments whole running through the gears (or at the track), your MPH should really climb.

A bigger TB will definitely help a lil but once again, it is not our only problem. I would think it would get us an extra tenth or maybe an increase from 115 to 116 MPH. It is not gonna be the differennce in 110 to 116 though.

Just watch the A/F, make sure TB is opening 100%, keep an eye on fuel pressure and play with the timing. Once you get it close, you can start tweaking the timing and A/F in the upper RPM and see a good MPH increase.

Lloyd Elliott

 

you could definately benefit from a in house dyno tune. Also, a 52mm tb wouldnt hurt. My main question, why are you running TR6's? Those are N20, and Blower plugs only. Run TR5's..

 

lloyd recomended the TR-6s to me. I am in the process of regaping them at .035 and then i will get the car running and re adjust the rockers.