swapped starter. Wow, what a powerful starter... However, it still does not fire. I checked from ground to a spark plug wire with a meter and I didnt get any voltage.

So I guess I am going to see if I can check for CEL's and see what might be causing the problem.

 

huh?

 

didnt read anything but first page but check your grounds and battery cables something

 

Dave89Iroc: Is there a better method? I would assume if there was spark the meter would read the voltage?

Ok, so I took a look at my manual and tried to follow the toubleshooting steps for the coil... However, I am having a weird problem.

I get 12v constant with the key in the on position on the harness that plugs into the ICM. Better known as "B" in the diagram. So this looks good. However, I was just curious, thinking I might have a short... And when I go from ground to "B", "D", or "C" I get continuity... Is this normal?

I do not get the 10v like is says I am supposed to on either A or D.

 

The ignition fuse was blown. I put in a new fuse, cranked it over and BAM! The loudest backfire I have ever heard in my life. I think I am deaf. So I am guessing my opti took a crap... This thing has bearly any miles on it... Less than 5k.

 

check your firing order and make sure u didnt cross plug wires

 

I didn't cross plug wires. I contacted Jason Cromer today and he said they would not warantee the opti. I guess they do it by yearly, not mileage. I think thats a horrible business practice personally, but I am not going to get into a big huge sob story about my 5 thousand mile opti. I will just eat the distributor and go with msd since they stand by their product.

 

Does anyone have the size for the nut that goes on the stud for the positive connection on the alternator? I dropped mine and can't find it anywhere.

3/8"?

Thanks.

 

Just incase anyone wants to know... Its an 8mm but with 1.25 thread pitch. I got the car working. It sounds like the bearings on the alternator are on their way out though.

Glad to have it working again.