I finally got the car (94z) on the road it ran good with the exception of stalling 3 times over 3 days. the last time it stalled it wouldn't start back up, the motor turns strong, doesnt start. I can hear the fuel pump coming on. I checked for spark and didnt see any. I checked the pink wire going to the coil for power and got nothing, where do i go from here???

 

check fuses first.

 

I believe you check the white wire for an AC frequency from the PCM, and if nothing, replace the PCM...you can search it.

 

I checked the fuses already and there all fine, sorry I forgot to mention it. I checked every pink wire going into the coil and had no power on any of them, I used my battery as the ground and the tester is fine. what now???

Also I tried to scan the car even though there are no lights on and the scanner says it can't link up with the car...

 

You do know that the ignition key must be in the "engine run" position to link your scanner with the PCM, to read any codes .... right?

 

yes, I know how to use the scanner, I havent used this particular scanner on this car but I've scanned pelnty of other cars with it and I scanned this car a ton of time with my old scanner. I hooked it up entered all the vin info turned on the key and tried to scan, it says unable to link to car.

I just did the opti and spark test, I got 0 dc voltage from the "A" and "D" (yes I had the key in the on position) then I took out the fuse and tested there for dc voltage and got 12. What now?

 

So what you're saying is you don't have power at the pink wire for the coil but you have power on one side of the fuse holder???????

Isn't the problem obvious???? Or do I misunderstand what you said?

If you can measure power on both sides of the fuse when it's in but not at the coil. The pink wire has a problem.

If you can measure power on one side of the fuse only, the fuse is a problem.

 

Fuses have little access slots on the top, so you can test across them with a meter or light. Use them.

 

ok I'll try that later today, when I tested at the fuse yesterday I took the fuse out and tested the slots the fuse goes into

 

I tested the fuse at the slots on the top of them and my meter is showing 10 DC volts, What do I check now?

 

Do you get that on both slots? It should be reading the same as your battery voltage.

 

Did you check each fuse slot/contact individually, against a known ground, or did you measure the voltage between the two fuse slot/contacts?

 

I tested each slot individually with a known ground, I got the 10 DC volts on both.

 

Well deal with the fact that you only have 10 volts later for now lets find the reason for the lack of voltage at the coil.

So now go back to the pink wire at the coil and check for 10 volts. Is it there?

If it's not at the coil.
Pull the fuse out and check the side that does NOT have 10 volts on it. Remember one side has voltage, the other side goes to the coil. It's the coil side you want. You want to check the side of the fuse that goes to the coil for continuity.

Since the leads of the meter aren't long enough to reach the fuse panel and the coil. Simply jump one end of the wire to ground and check for continuity to ground.

 

I went back and tested terminals "A" and "D" on the ICM harness and got 10v DC at both, I also tested terminal "B" on ac scale while cranking the motor and got between 1 and 3 volts ac. which according to shbox's website is good. What Now?

is this the pink wire test? or do I have to take the coil harness off and check the pink wire there?