I'm having a no start issue and I think it could be one of two things:

1. I accidently grounded the battery positive to the alternator. I've done this once before and it didn't seem to affect anything.

2. My new oil pan doesn't have a spot for the oil sensor in the oil pan, so I left it out. I tried putting the sensor horizontally in a quart of oil under the car and I hooked it up, but still no start.

btw all interior lights come on and the door dings when open and such, but the starter does not turn over.

 

Could be the VATS. Someone else could probably ellaborate on this idea. I'm not real familar with it, but I know it will not allow your car to start.

Benji

 

The ignition module will cause a no start.

 

Update:

Everything was working before I pulled the motor. I checked all the fuses that were visible and none were blown. I checked the battery cables and everything looks to hooked up properly. when I put the key in the security light comes on for about 3-5 seconds and then goes off when I try to start the car. Also when I turn to the start position both ABS modules in the fuse box under the hood very lightly click once. Nothing repeating, just once everytime the key is turned to start. Currently I have the egr, air and oil pan sensor unplugged. Would a sensor being unplugged prevent the starter from turning the motor?

 

None of the sensor's you indicated would keep your car from starting. Check to see if your starter is getting power when attempting to crank. If it is then obviously you need to get your starter checked out. If not, trace it back to the relay in the dash and then back to the ignition switch on the steering column. Since your security light goes out I don't think it is the VATS.

 

When I had the engine rebuilt I degreased alot of things and the starter was one of the things, I didn't spray the teeth or anything, but I did get the outside casing pretty good with degreaser and a pressure sprayer. Is cleaning the starter a bad thing?

 

Not really, I used Zeps on mine when I was rebuilding my engine and everything was fine. It's easier to just check for power and then go from there. I used to be a parts swapper, but that gets expensive. It takes a little time to find out what is wrong sometimes, but it's cheaper. I would check to make sure you hooked the starter up correctly and then check for power at the starter. That will give you a place to start.

 

Thanks for your replys! One more thing before I dig in there tommorow. Is there any easy way I can make a jumper wire to the starter just to see if it works. I want to see the starter try to spin the motor before I start an electrical hunt. Detailed instructions would be great if it's possible, so I dont destroy something else while trying.

 

When I was tracing my problem down I used the relay in the dash to jump straight from the ignition switch to the starter. Doing that took out the clutch safety switch, BCM, relay and VATS. When it didn't work I checked my ignition switch and that turned out to be the problem. As far as jumping a 12V source to the starter to see if it turns over I'm not sure what you could use. I've never tried that before. You might try a search and get some ideas for that. Either that or someone else might chime in later and give you some ideas.

 

Well I checked all my cables/wiring and put a dead short to the starter and it didn't move. So I replaced the starter motor and she cranked over the first time. I'm guessing the full compression of the new rebuilt motor was just to much for a 150,000 mile old original starter. Thanks for the input!