I don't think so, you have to listen to the audible clicking of the rocker. Could be very hard to do with open headers.

 

Yeah but I thought that the the moment that the audible clicking went away was the exact point of zero lash, but with poly locks, the poly lock will stop turning at the moment it reaches zero lash. Then I could add the preload and move on to the next rocker?

Anyone can correct me if I am wrong.

 

That sounds right, but others need to comment. I didn't do it with the engine running and would be best if experienced peeps chime in.....

 

Sorry about the incorrect info on the resistor. I didnt know OBD II was different.
Thanks for the help Injuneer.
Lloyd

 

I swapped the distributor for the old one and no change. I pulled the valve covers and they were very off. I adjusted them with the engine running and I could feel the difference immediately. But just as I tried to get on it, bamm, I thing the opti blew. I just swapped the damn thing, now I have to do it again tomorrow.

 

I pulled off the opti and sure enough the rotor screws had backed out. I thread locked the rotor screws on the new opti and swapped in on. The car fired right up and ran well. I put the car in first, brought up the rpms, nailed it and the car got sideways, straightened it out, shifted into 2nd and the car got sideways again. So far so good. I still have to get another allen set screw, I lost one while adjusting the rockers, hopefully that rocker doesn't come way out of adjustment before I get a new one soon.

 

Uh, quit driving the car until you get that set screw back in there! Without the set screw, the rocker nut will just keep loosening up until it comes off. Or the excess lash does unpleasant things to your valve stem, possibly breaking the valve and ruining the motor.

Those things are not there for decoration...

 

well I can confirm, the method of eng. running adj. is perfect. exactly how I do it. I see the eng. off method as a setup only. soon as its running, and I know everything is ok, I adj. them with the car running. its the only way to know there perfect. you wouldnt know if they were too tight cause it'll still run, just lose power. thats why always do the extra step and adj. them with the eng. running. but those pipes are still holding you back. even if you unplug the 02's and bypass the knock sensor. most race cars (that use open headers)use 18" extensions or more. but they are TUNED for that. it will seriously affect the afr compared to exh. on so Id stop driving it all together atleast until you get the ypipe on.

 

I won't. I'll be picking up a new set screw soon from a buddy. The stupid stock valve cover gaskets would not stay in place at all, it was a bitch to get the covers sealed, I might get some new ones, hopefully they will stay in place when I try to put the covers back on.

 

yeah the valve cover seals will swell up. only thing you can do at that point it take it off, wash it in parts cleaner. put spray adheasive in the valve cover groove, and cram the seal back in there. the glue will hold it in place and let you squeeze it in place.

 

Or, quit pulling your hair out and go to the parts store and buy a new set of Felpro valve cover gaskets. It will be the best present you ever bought yourself!

 

Will do.

 

I had a set screw come off of one of my rockers and the nut ended up coming off. WORST DAY OF MY LIFE. Its not impossible to fix with the engine in the car, but it sucks.


I agree- STOP DRIVING IT!

 

I will have a new set screw today. Also my y-pipe arrived yesterday, so I have some work to do. Still have to pay to get the car registered and smogged. $$$

 

Put the set screw in, adjusted the last rocker, and I installed my y-pipe. So far the car runs great, I'm pretty impressed with the mail order tune. No numbers of any kind yet, but all is well...so far.