OK my car has no oil pressure and its ticking pretty loud!! im sooo paniced right now. i dont know what to do. What happened with the engine? oil pump? bent push rod? HELP!!!!!!

 

it also doesnt have any service engine lights

 

Drain the oil and look in the drain hole with a flashlight and see if you can see the pickup. If need be, bend a coat hanger and see if you can feel it with that. Last, tap the bottom of the oil pan with a plastic hammer and hear for it bouncing around.

 

Second vote that the oil pickup came off. You also might want to verify your oil pressure sender/harness is working, even though the rockers are ticking.

 

Even if the oil pickup came off, the engine would still run with normal oil pressure, unless you were braking or turning hard.

 

Sounds like ya should roll up your sleeves and get ready for a rebuild. Good excuse for a 383 with about 600FWHP and 300 hoss of hose.

 

My engine ticks and my oil pressure is at normal on cold starts but when it warms up the needle hangs at the first dash on the gauge, it does move a little bit with going the the rpm's but not much.

I also have a dent on the bottom of the oil pan, I could bend the oil pick up tube, but which way would i go? Up or Down with it?

 

symptoms of a spun bearing.

i'd pull the pan and check for obvious bearing damage. if the pickup is off you'll need to pull the pan anyways and if its not you need to see whats going on in there.

 

i agree dont leave anything to chance. pull the pan and pull the berring caps off (rod and main) and check for bering damage. it can spin a rod even if the pickup is still connected. all it takes is one verry small peice of metal shaving to get in the berring for it to go bad. befor you pull the pan put a strong magnet on the pan and move it around for a min or 2 then leave it on and pull the pan.

 

ok how much would this run me? what would i need to replace? any harm done to the engine? what should i do? or buy? while im at it should i upgrade my rockers to 1.6 or 1.7?

 

do it your self. this isnt a job for a pro. just do what i said with the magnet and then drain the oil into a container that you can put a coffee filter on and strain the oil threw the filter. also dump the contents of the oil filter into the coffee filter . check for metal shavings. then remove the oil pan and look for metal shavings. then pull your main berrings off 1 at a time and look for damage to the berings. replace each one after you check for damage on that particular bering. then once your finished with the main berings pull the caps off of the rod berings. check for damage and put that cap back on. do them all 1 at a time so you dont cross any of them.

if there is berring damage then you will have to pull the crank and have it turned at a machine shop and then purchase oversized berings (what ever the crank had to be turned to) and while your at it purchase new rod berings and just install everything the way it came out covering each bering and crank journal in assembly lube. but still be careful not to cross anything even bolts. its best to put each set (1cap and 2bolts) into ziplock bags and lable what place it came from ie: main cap#1 or rod cap# 1. be sure to torque the bolts on the main and rod caps to spec. also replace both the front and rear main seals. Also you might want to replace the oil pump at this time too becuse if any metal shavingseven the smallest peice got in the old one then it will eventualy go bad (if it hasnt already). then fill it up with oil and drive it or let it frun for 20 min then drain the oil out and replace it with new. drive it for 100 miles and replace the oil again soo that you are sure all of the shavings are out of the system. then you should be good to go.

if you have a shop check this it will cost around 500 bucks and if they have to have the crank turned and they have to replace things then the price will be upwards of 2000-2500 bucks.

if you do this your self it will cost you nothing but 5 qts of oil if nothing is wrong when you check it. if you do have to have the crank turned then it will cost a max of 500 bucks total and thats a savings of 1500-2000 bucks.

if you have any questions on how to do anyof this feel free to pm me or email me.(southerncomphort@aol.com) i am a ase certified mechanic and i also own a shop so i wont lead you in the wrong direction.

 

Hey man i just had the same problem so I'll save you some time.to find out if its the pickup tube tap the bottom of the pan with a rubber hammer if you dont hear the pick up tube then move on to adding more oil to see if its the pump a few extra qts will bring the oil level up to the pump its self.and only crank over the car dont start it (pull the injector fuse)after a few seconds of cranking the pressure will go up if not then.

The hard part if you heard the noise click a lifter clater on the top then theres only two things left the oil pump shaft is messed up or the gear that drives the shaft is fubared (in my case it was the gear)

The only other thing it would be is a little plug on the front of the motor came out and is bleeding all the presure off before it gets to the top.

So try that out and try not to run it long If you find metal in the oil then start hunting for parts on a new motor.but if its not the sump and the pump then just pull the intake and replace that one peice and the shaft only a 30$ gasket set and a few oil changes just to keep you on the road.

 

I think you better take off the oil pan and check for a spun bearing, and/or look at the bottom of the pan for metal traces with a magnet and go from there.....

I had the same symptoms a few weeks back and.... yes, some rod and main bearings where pretty bad! Now is almost a 389....... (I hope it's not your case, but is the first place to look with your oil problem anyway)

 

no offence but this leaves alot of stuff to chance and you can only hope that you dont have a spun berring. with the lifter tick these cars have the novice wont be able to hear a berring beginning to go bad. so pull the pan and check always.

 

how hard is this to do? im sure u have to lift the car up right? can i use regular oil for the changing and wen the shaving r out of the system switch to synthetic? Im 18 years old and pretty novice on these cars when it comes to mechanic work.