I searched all day and my eyes are killing me.

My car was running fine for about 3 weeks after getting it. I was starting to get some stuttering on Monday, then it just dies in my accel. I had to get it towed to my buddies shop.


It just cranks and does not want to start.

Tested for spark to the opti from the coil. Hits hard.
Tested for spark from the opti to cylinder #1..... nothing.

You can hear the fuel pump prime
The schrader valve open spurts fuel, but when I connect my gauge it doesnt read (think my gauge isnt opening up the port)
I just dont smell gas when cranking it over.


Opti is new (installed right before I bought it)
I've checked every fuse I can think of.



Any ideas before I rip this thing apart tomorrow????

 

well if it is getting spark at the coil (did the check the coil wire and make sure the spar is passing through it?, and double check that it is on all the way on the opti, they can be a PITA to put on sometimes)

Then it has to be the opti. Not uncommon at all for a new one to go bad, either because it was installed wrong or the rotor was not tight when it was new.

Try and get the recept for it and get it exchanged, if you cant get the recept maybe the store it was bought from has it on record.

 

The coil wire grounded will send a spark, just doesn't seem to be coming out of the opti to the wires.

I understand I might be replacing the opti.... but what I DONT get is why I would have no fuel as well? Chances of a fuel pump and opti dying at the exact same time??

 

^ Very Slim. Fix the Opti and go from there. You did have the core in the schrader valve when you hooked your gauge up right? Because you made it sound like you took it out and primed it to get it to spray. It should spray with some force.

 

It didn't spray..... just sort of oozed out.


Heading up to the shop in a few to get it up on the lift and figure out what it is.

 

Then your definatly having fuel pump problems as well.

It should squirt out of there pretty good.

 

Fuel pump now kicks , sprays fuel.


Still no spark from the opti, I can hold the coil wire nearly 1/2" from a ground and it makes it.

I checked the wires going into the opti and I'm getting voltage. Tested the ICM and everything checked out as well.

Would I be better off just getting a GM opti, or are the ones from NAPA/Autozone good. The repair order I have shows they used a reman unit, I do not want to have to do this crap again in 3 months.

 

GRRRRRRRRRRRRRR

Alright.
Ran the ignition coil test, PASSED
Ran ICM test, PASSED
Tested optical sensor in opti, PASSED

It just will not pass spark throuhg to the spark plug wires. Could I just have a bad cap and rotor?

 

Im no expect on an Opti, but if the optical sensor is working ( Basically a Crank Position Sensor ) and you have voltage from the coil to the opti, thats all it really leaves I think?

There are a few part-outs right now on the Parts-For-Sale forum so try PM'ing them guys for a used low mile opti. Ive done pretty well on here buying things. Just try and see if anyone has ever bought from the sellers before.

Or you could try the new MSD ( I think their who makes it ) Opti that has a mechanical spark advance/retard built in that goes +- 5* and report back here with a review

 

Sounds like you may have a dead rotor. You won't know until you tear it down

I have the Napa cap and rotor and it works just fine-it is a pain in the a. to change

 

I travelling this week so my buddy is going to have to look at it for me. It's almost cheaper to go with a whole new OPTI..........

 

Depending where you get the opti from, it does come close to what cap/rotor sets go for at some places.

 

154 for the cap and rotor from vato-zone
220 for the opti reman'd



Spoke with my friend and he explained that the cap and rotor are considered the high voltage side and the opti side is the low voltage side. He's almost sure that the cap and rotor are shot (he owns a KILLER charged lt1 vette and a charged 97ss camaro)


I have the MSD 6a box and I also had a burnt plug wire and te previsou owner ran with a bad ground to the coil bracket for awhile from what I have read here. He says that alone is enough to spike voltage enough to damage the high side. He'll know more when he gets a shot at cracking it open. He's seen the rotor buttom just come apart or melt on the cap a few times. I think I am better off just waiting to see what he comes up with after teardown, then going from there. Even if I replace the opti, I can save the current one to do a LTCC conversion or something since the opti sensor is still good correct?

 

Finally got a free weekend to head out and work on the car. I was on vacation last weekend, so I didnt get any time with it.

Took about 4 hours after I got the balancer off.... long story.

Started right up after I replaced the cap and rotor. One bolt holding the rotor on was hand tight when I did the teardown. I put loctite on the screws just in case.