Hey guys,
I am putting together a head cam combo and was looking the rockers the other day. I have bought the Comp Pro Mag 1.6 RR's used with nuts/locks so I did not get any paperwork with them. I have new ARP 7/16 studs. This will be on a LE2 setup.
Thanks in advance for your help.

With this said, here are my questions:

Do the new pro mag RR's sit directly onto the studs?
Is there a seat or washer?
Does the RR sit on the tapered part of the RR stud?
It seems like there is some potential friction like this???
Is the whole RR setup only 3 pieces?
The stud, the RR, and the allen nut/lock on top?
When I do install and adjust the RR's, do I just put the RR on the stud and
then the nut/lock?
Any thread sealant or lube anywhere?
I know most guys just tighten the nut/lock down till it gets tight and then
add 1/8, 1/4, 1/2 turn, which is best?
Do I just give the nut the -1/8, 1/4, or 1/2 turn and them tighten the allen
lock?
When should I recheck them/re tighten them? And then how often?

Thanks again to all!

 

The rockers go on the studs with no washers or anything, no lube or sealant. With the rocker you are working on at zero lift, tighten until the pushrod doesn't want to spin, then whatever additional amount you are using. I use 1/2 turn. Then lock with the allen wrench.
The rockers don't "seat" down on the studs, that's the idea of the locking nuts. They allow the rocker to sort of "float" on the stud, supported by the pushrod and the spring if that makes sense.
As far as rechecking on a new valve job, check with Lloyd.

 

Hopefully the Pro Magnums you bought were for the 7/16 studs you have and not 3/8.

 

That makes complete sense. I didn't realize that they "floated". That will explain the binding. And yes, they are 7/16", I have tried them on the studs, but the heads are not on yet.
Thanks

 

Zero lash is when the pushrod just starts to have resistance when you spin it, not when it's unable to spin.

 

I just readjusted mine, what I did was put a little mark on the top of the main nut, either with white nail polish or just use a dremmel and a cutoff disk and just scratch the surface of the nut to put a clear mark on it.

Install the rocker on the stud, hand tighten the nut while spinning the push rod with the other hand, right when you begin to feel resistance on the push rod, thats zero lash.
Note the position of the mark on the nut, tighten it 1/4 more of a turn.
Then insert allen wrench in the locking nut and tighten it down as tight as you can while holding the main nut with a boxed end wrench.

once the allen lock nut it tight, turn the main nut with the boxed end wrench another 1/8 turn, this "locks" the nut tight and you end up with an overall 3/8 turn past zero lash...that was for a .597 lift cam...with less lift you can go the full 1/2 turn...not sure how much less, but I'd say around .550 would need the 1/2.

That mark on the top of the nut makes gauging how much you have turned it past 0 lash much easier to track.