The vats on the newer chevys will turn off spark and fuel. Have your tech scan it and see if there are any theft deterrant codes or if the pcm is even seein the key in the ignition. Theres a small wire that runs thru the column and reads off a pellet in the key and tells the pcm the proper key is in the car for your vats.

 

When the VATs activates like your talking about, the security light will light or blink. He gets none of that, and he's already replaced the BCM with the same results. He can also initiate the diagnositic mode of the BCM thus indicating the BCM sees the pellet since it checks that first before entering diagnostic mode.

Next guess.

Hey Monk, where you had trouble finishing the entry into diagnostic mode, where it says "within 5 seconds". Try waiting 5 seconds and if that doesn't work, try doing it really fast. I've seen a lot of SM errors, maybe they meant wait 5 seconds.

Dave

 

OK, well I pinpointed the problem today. While sleeping last night I realised that while we tested the BCM's power and grounds with the key in the "run" position, We did not test them in the "start" position. So sure enough when I had my multimeter connected to the bcm, as soon as I switch it to "start" power cuts out on the 2 power pins.

Due to this I belive it is the ignition switch, This is supported by the fact that my ignition switch blew and was changed 2 weeks before I had the problem, and was not the first time beacuse the pigtails leading to the switch were changed, and war somewhat heat worn. Right now I have it setup where I just put the key to "run" then connect 2 wires to jump the starter. Since I wanted to do the pushbutton to start mod anways, I will be doing it at the same time as I diagnos exactly what wire or wires were the problem.
Thank all of you for your ideas and thoughts, I really appreciated it beause it helped me narrow down the problem.

 

glad to hear you solved you problem.

 

Did the ignition switch fix your problem? I am 99% sure i replaced that bastard not long before you bought it.

 

I replaced that a month before I had the problem it turned out to be a combination between that and the plugs that go into the switch. There was to much power being drawn off the switch, I assume it was the hardwireing of the fans. I put a relay in so the fans draw right of the battery instead of on the ignition relay.

But yesterday some mornic lady cut across 2 lanes of traffic right infront of me and I hit her, It was 100% her fault, so I hopefulyl will get enough money together to repair the car, I really do not want SS #2544 going to the junkyard :-/

 

Argh! Sorry to hear that man. Good thing your not in FL where it is no fault