Ok, so I drove to kragen's and when I went to leave my car wouldn't start and my Security light was on. It was on for about 3 or 4 days but then it went off for a couple and now, boom. no start. I suspected the VATS and looked on Shoebox's website plus did a few searches. First I measured my key pellet as being 11.22kohms. I assumed it was pellet 15 so I went to radio shack and got a set of resistors which came out to 11.91kohms. However even after I cuts the wires and put the resistors in line the car still won't crank over and the security light is still on. I read that the Vats also disables fuel, will the Fuel pump still prime?? I can hear the pump come on when I turn the key.
So I have no crank...I used the resistors on the wht/blk and pur/wht wires which I think are the correct values...fuel pump primes...Any Ideas? where do I start? It sucks because I just had Ion send me his ODBI conversion and like an idiots I didnt tell him to disable the VATS because I didn't have any problems I did install my original obdii computer as well just to be sure and still nothing.

 

I don't understand why you would cut the wires. Once the harness is unplugged, you can simply place the resistor in the connector and tape it over.

As long as you put the resistor on the white/black and purple/white wires, you have the correct wires. I did see that you used a combined value of 11.91K. You need to measure the actual value of your resistors. Remember, they can vary by 10% or more depending on the type of resistors. The maximum value accepted by a 96 body control module is 12292 ohms. If your value is 11.91K +- 10% then the actual value could be as much as 13100 ohms. That would be too high and the security light would come on.

My suggestion to you is check 2 things at once. See what the actual value of the resistors are and confirm the connection of the resistor to the BCM. Do this by checking the 2 wires at the BCM. At the BCM, measure the resistance from pin D7 to pin C2. They are the only pins with a white/black and purple/white wire on them.

Let us know what you measure and we can help you more.

 

i cut the wires on the column side ( the two white ones with the orange wrap) so I could solder the resistors in and make it permanent. The resistors I got are a 10k and a 2.2k , it was the measured resistance that came out to 11.91k so I did check them with my multimeter. I will check the bcm but where is it located?

 

The BCM is near the radio. I'm curious, the wires going up the column are white. The ones going to the BCM are white/black and purple/white. If you soldered the resistor to the white wires, that was incorrect. They go back to the switch not the BCM. It sounds as though you may have soldered it to the wrong end.

 

no no, sorry I'm confusing you. I cut the wires on the column side of the connector to keep the harness intact on the BCM side. Like how shoebox described how to do it on his website. so basically I cut the white wires, soldered the resistor to the white wires and connector, then plugged it back into the harness.

 

This happenes to me every now and then..

All you have to do is trick the computer.

go into the fuse pannel on the door and pull the PCM Bat. fuse and the PCM Ignt. fuse at the same time. leave them out for a few seconds then put the PCM ignt. fuse back in and try to start the car it should crank but not start. all you have to do after that is put the Bat fuse back in and the security light will go off and the car will start.

good luck man.

Might have to mess around with the fuses in and out a couple times but it will work.

 

Ok, so the fuse trick worked. The car will start and I drove it home, however the security light is on and once I shut the car off it won't start again unless I do the trick. Could the BCM be bad? has that ever happenend? or should I check the wiring between where I put the resistor in and the bcm. Too bad I didnt know that trick yesterday would have saved me a $50 tow bill.

 

is your vatts disabled?

 

No, I don't think so. I'll have to grab my tune sheet to make sure

 

If the vatts is not diabled go ahead and have that done. those little chips in the keys are bound to go bad and when they do you hvae one hell of a headache.should only take the tuner a min.

 

Had the same problem with mine. No crank. Contacts in the key switch worn out. 170,000 miles will do that. Tore the thing apart, being aware of the airbag stuff. Pulled out the wires for the security thing on the key, stripped them and just taped them on my spare key. Has worked for 3+ years.

 

Sometimes helps if you wiggle key and just keep trying, been there and done that. Only trouble I've ever had with this car. Except for the intake leak. Was a good excuse to tear it apart and add some fun stuff.

 

The resistor will remove the key and the contacts from being used. If the contacts in the switch are still connected, putting the key in will half the value of the resistance. Be sure the wires are cut to the switch contacts.

 

Ok So here's an update, I pulled everything out. The BCM on my car is right behind the glove box on the passenger side, not behind the radio. Acutally, it was easier to get to than I thought. At the two pins I get the 11.92k ohms which is very close to the nominal 11.8 as in shoebox's right up. However my key is 11.22k and I suspect the since I am still having the problem that the key and cylinder wasnt an issue. I jumped the Theft deterrant relay so I could crank the motor with the starter. SO now it fires for about 5 secs runs rough then dies...no fuel right? GM wants $165(my cost $220 kist) + programming fees for a new bcm. Or I could send my PCM back to Ion @ Madwolf for less than $100. But my question is two fold...1 will disabling the Vats from the PCM absolutely solve my problem or will I still be screwed and have to buy the BCM....I have heard some people saying even after a PCM disable they had to do the key resistor mod. and 2.. How does the BCM disable fuel? not supplying the pump with power? or not allowing the PCM to send injector pulse...what I'm getting at is can I run key power to the fuel pump and at least drive the car while I'm waiting for the parts and or computer. Any and all feedback is welcome.