What is the difference between self-aligners and non self aligning??

How hard are these to install?

I researched as always, but came back inconclusive and im pretty tired, so sorry...don't smoke a newbie.

Oh yeah, does my stock heads (94 LT1) have 3/8" or 7/16" studs? Should I replace these or get different pushrods when I get some rollers??

 

SA- Direct replacement of stock rockers, steel plates on both sides of roller tip keep the tip aligned properly on the valve stem

NSA- Not self locating, so in order to keep the rocker straight on the valve stem, a guideplate that bolts underneath the rocker studs is used to hold the pushrods straight, which properly locates the rocker.

Unless you are using the stock 1.5 ratio, you will need to upgrade your valvesprings to at least an LT4 spring, because the increased ratio increases your lift, which will put your springs in coil bind (not good)

As stated above NSA will require guideplates also. Otherwise it's just a remove replace deal, you also have to set the proper preload on the lifters.

 

So if I got some 1.6 RR that ARE self aligning, I'd have to get bigger springs.
- Will any SBC springs do?

- What rate? I have N20 waiting on my desk, running a 100-125 shot. So far as cam, I won't do anything too ridiculous. A mild to a mediocre cam would be the biggest i'd run

- Adjusting the lifters will mean taking off the intake manifold, but thats all I know. What else is involved? I know I could research, but a fast answer is super sweet.

Thanks!
Johnny

 

Ok first of all.(just to start off) you dont need LT4 springs to do a 1.6 rocker swap. Reason: I had a 93 trans am with crane gold race rockers(1.6) and NEVER after 30k miles had a problem. reason number 2. Just 3 hours ago I installed pro Mag NSA 1.6 (7/16thstuds) on my 96 WS6..ive been driving around all night and havent had a problem. Ill tell you one thing...if you dont have a deep socket when doing the studs..its going to be a PITA. Also if you plan on going with any cam/spring upgrades youd be best off going with some 7/16th studs(so they dont break) and NSA rockers..(they are stronger) but youll def. notice the difference.

 

So a stock LT1 has 3/8" studs? To upgrade to 7/16" are anything needed except bigger studs? Obviously, I will have to get the right rockers for the stud, but will I have to enlarge the hole 1/16" of an inch or will the 7/16" studs still fit?? Sorry, it is late and I am tired.

What rate springs should I get? Will any SBC springs work?

And so far as adjusting lifters I am clueless...

Johnny Roach

 

the part of the stud going into the head is already 7/16th it just gets skinnier up top..alls you need is to go with the NSAs and guideplates(the studs are a bit longer and you need the guideplates to make up for the extra room. They unscrew and then you set the guideplate down and screw in the new studs..they go right in.

 

valvesprings require retainers to hold the spring in place against the surface of the head, and locks that hold the valve attached to the top retainer. these retainers are specific to the type of spring you are using. in a lot of cases, changing out springs and retainers to a higher lift spring and stronger retainer will require machining of the heads, specifically the spring seats to accomodate the new retainers so they fit properly.
next off, you have to get a valvespring that will match the cam lift you have. lt4 springs arent rated to handle too much lift so using them with a large cam isnt a great idea.. comp 987s i think are good to 600 lift which is more than most of us see.
next, you have to get the right set of lifters to match the rest of your valvetrain. stock lt1 lifters have a nasty habbit of not liking higher rpms.. when you swap your cam out generally you put a cam in with a higher powerband (e.g. the gm847 cam makes peak power around 6500 rpms and redlines around 6800.. that is like 1000 rpms faster than the stock cam) generally the stock ones are good to like 6200 rpms but much more than that and you will run into problems..

so theoretically yes, almost every sbc spring will work, as long as a) you get your heads machined to accept the spring-specific retainers, b) the springs and the cam can work together, and c) the lifters can take the rpm you want to hit and are compatible with your cam and springs..

as for the lifter adjustment.. i believe he was talking about setting the valve lash.. any time you take off your rocker arms you MUST put your engine at top dead center.. valve lash is an ordered adjustment of the rocker arms so that the valves are set in their proper opened or closed positions in accordance with the pistons in their travel... if that made no sense i will explain it better.. hope that helps

 

If you want to drop a valve I would definitely use 1.6 or even 1.7 or hey maybe even those 1.85 setups with stock springs. If you don't feel like destroying your motor on what seems to be a toss up issue, then change your valvesprings at the same time. You dont' want to be anywhere close to coil bind dude.

 

A friend of mine decided to only add the 1.6 RR's and use the stock springs. They were fine for probably 10K miles, they he broke the ball tips off 2 of is pushrods...never found one of the ball tips Not worth the risk of coil bind in my opinion.

You don't pull the intake to install RR's and springs. It's all performed under the valve covers.

 

i dont see how its a tossup..it must of been a problem with that persons car to begin with.. My 93 had 30 some odd THOUSAND miles on stock springs and 1.6 rockers seeing HEAVY(daily basis) abuse and never once did I have a problem. Maybe with 1.7 or something but even my 96...no problems and ive been abusing it all day today.