Just curious how most of you would break in a new motor? I won't have the turbo hooked up during break in. I will be using the stock airbox system.

What oil should I use during break in?

Jesse

 

I don't know if there's any set way, but here's what I'd do.

Use some conventional oil for the first start up, run motor at 2000 rpm for first 10-15 minutes

After that 10-15 minutes, drive the car around close to the house(or shop) for another 15 minutes.

Come back and immediately drain the oil. Replace with synthetic(if you plan to run it). Can't wait to hear the comments on this one.

Drive for the next 1000 miles on this oil change, varying engine speed. Not driving as hard as you can, but not driving easy.

Change oil and give it hell!!

John

 

run for 20 min- make sure all is well- break in cam if its not a hydrolic roller.

Change oil.

Give it hell. From what i've been told- and by a few people now- Moly rings like to set when they are hot and they like to get heat cycled.

in the words of a wise man
"The advice I gave you is free,
take it for what its worth"

I've only done this on one motor and only built one motor so I cant do much of any comparing.

My piston rings are fine after 5,000 miles though

 

Actually, I would wait at least 3000 miles to be sure the rings are fully seated before using synthetic oil. There is no way you would seat your rings in 20 miles. Rings will not seat properly running synthetic oil.

 

I've heard that from people, but also there are cars coming factory filled with synthetic oil now, who knows.............

 

So just regular 5w-30 dino oil for the break-in?

 

Hmmm. Well, maybe not 20 min. But depending on where and how the engine is broke in, you're not too far off. It certainly won't take a day. How long do you think it takes to break in rings in a nascar engine? With the correct rings and wall prep, won't take as long as you might think. And others, don't blindly accept that the oem put in synthetic to aid in the ring seating process.

 

I have been told by e few very respectable (and notable) engine builders that (the rings are seated by the time you set the valves)
and also that (we run a 10/30 petroleum on the dyno for 8-10 min at 1500- 2200 RPM's then shut it down and put what we race w/ in it)(synth 0-5 weight.) Now mind you these are statements from prostock engine builders, and they obviously know whats up.
As for my own stuff I have allways pre lube just before startup, run it at idle - 2000 rpm's for 5-8 min shut down/ cool down completely retorque heads, check bolts anti freeze,leaks. warm it up again test drive check timing (if applicable) 10-20 min drive (easy) stop check plugs, bolts headers trans oil ect...Dump oil/filter At this point it dependes on your application. Race engine and you plan on synth, nows the time. Street engine give it about 300-500 miles on petroleum before a sythetic oil. My reasoning is generaly street engines are built w/tighter clearances than race engines (1.5 to 2 thousands may not sound like much) but it will make a diff. Also listen to the moter shut down Does it stop really quick or does it coast a bit when ya kill it. When she starts to loosen up is the time for synthetic. Every one has their own opinion of whats rite and whats BS. This is whats been workin for me for the last 13 yrs.

 

Also keep in mind that these guys are building engines to use for a brief period of time, not something you want to get 60,000+ miles out of.

I'm just saying for piece of mind, keep the dino oil in there for a little longer. Its not going to hurt anything. Why take the chance? You only get on kick-at-the-cat.

 

500 miles of "normal" driving. Oil change... thats 'broke in' enough for me

 

On these cars you don't need to run it for 20 minutes at 2000+ RPM since thats a flat tappet cam break in procedure. What I did for mine (minus the cam break in):

Start the car up on dyno oil, run it around for 10 minutes or so, change the oil to remove all the assembly lube.
Run dyno oil in it for 500 miles, running it easy and varying speed/RPM during this time. Change the oil to whatever you want after this, and drive it however you want.

I have heard more than a few people state that moly rings will seat in properly in about 10 minutes. My machine shop guy told me to drive it like your going to when you break it in, so if your gonna beat the wee out of it, do it from the start. He broke his engines in by planting the car against a pole and doing a massive smokey burnout with them

 

Originally posted by magius231
I have heard more than a few people state that moly rings will seat in properly in about 10 minutes.

I have also heard that some people couldn't get their rings to seat, and it took some high load/hard driving to finally seat them.

My machine shop guy told me to drive it like your going to when you break it in, so if your gonna beat the wee out of it, do it from the start. He broke his engines in by planting the car against a pole and doing a massive smokey burnout with them


I agree with this. I like to see alot higher loades put on an engine for break in. It seems to seat the rings alot quicker, and alot better. With engines I have worked hard right from the start, I have never had a problem with burning oil at all. In fact, my new engine doesn't burn a drop. I can go on a 5 day road trip, constant driving, and not be down a bit on the stick. I'm happy with that!

 

This may be a function of incorrect wall prep. Too smooth a bore?

 

That is very possible. Its hard to say without actually seeing the engine go together.

Just an example, a friend put one of those 502hp 502ci engines in his truck. He took it easy for awhile, but the damn thing burnt alot of oil. He eventually hooked onto his 5th wheel holiday trailer and by the time he got to where he was going, it quit smoking/burnign oil.

For whatever reason, I do think they like load to break in. I don't belive in babying the engine.

 

Nascar doesn't, neither shoud we. They need an engine that seals. In case some are confused, as babying is DEFINATELY not recommended, putting a load on it as you stated, or runnin' it hard, has little to do with 'beating' it. It also has little to do with a lack of longevity of the engine. Quite the contrary, it will enhance the longevity and health of the engine.