New RR install
#2
if you get a self aligning rocker (reccomended) you dont need anything else. It wouldnt hurt to change your pushrods if they have alot of miles on them but it isnt neccessary.
Guide plates are for non-self aligning rockers
Upgrade your springs when you have a cam with bigger lift that requires it..
upgrade your retainers when you do springs.
locks come with retainers
change your valve seals if you have a leaking one or a spring that requires a different seal.
hope that helps.
Guide plates are for non-self aligning rockers
Upgrade your springs when you have a cam with bigger lift that requires it..
upgrade your retainers when you do springs.
locks come with retainers
change your valve seals if you have a leaking one or a spring that requires a different seal.
hope that helps.
#3
Non self-aligning rockers are better for race engines. If you go NSA, you'll need a set of GM Performance Parts! Don't let any one tell you COMP plates will work! GMPP is the only manufactuerer that makes plates to fit LT1's, because they have .050" wider valve spacing than a typical SBC. Also, to use guide plates, it's best to swap to a set of ARP studs. The thread part on the stock studs are too short to hold the plate and screw into the head.
You usually buy race retainers and locks seperate. You shouldn't have to swap springs unless yours have high milage, or you go with a cam with more lift.
It helps if you know what your overall goals are. Do you plan on a cam swap later? I'd suggest swapping to 7/16" studs/rockers. No head modification is neccessary.
Do you have any leaking past the valve seals? Again, if it's high milage, I'd swap them if your changing springs. If you're leaking past a seal, you might as well change springs while you've got them off...In other words...If you're changing one, you might as well change both while it's apart.
If you need any part numbers for rockers, plates, etc. let me know. I'll help you with what I can.
Frank
You usually buy race retainers and locks seperate. You shouldn't have to swap springs unless yours have high milage, or you go with a cam with more lift.
It helps if you know what your overall goals are. Do you plan on a cam swap later? I'd suggest swapping to 7/16" studs/rockers. No head modification is neccessary.
Do you have any leaking past the valve seals? Again, if it's high milage, I'd swap them if your changing springs. If you're leaking past a seal, you might as well change springs while you've got them off...In other words...If you're changing one, you might as well change both while it's apart.
If you need any part numbers for rockers, plates, etc. let me know. I'll help you with what I can.
Frank
#4
I am definately getting non-self aligning...less noise and everything I do to the car is for racing it. I didn't know about GMMP plates or ARP studs, but if I'm replacing the studs should I keep the 3/8" or get 7/16" ? What's the difference. Is it the length that is 3/8 or the width? What do locks and retainers do?
I am getting the Crane 210/224 camshaft, so I will need new springs.
As for leaks, the car has 64,000 miles and I have not had a single problem with. It's the most reliable car I've had. But I guess I should change the seals while I'm in there. Won't hurt any and it's not too much $$.
Also, our 93's have hardened pushrods, correct? no need to swap those.
And clarify for me if you can. It's my understanding that guide plates keep the rockers in alignment with the pushrods. Pushrods should be hardened to handle the added stress from larger RR's. Springs are needed to handle lift over .500". Do springs slide over the studs?(or is it the retainers that keep the springs in place and the studs that hold them on the head?) Basically, what do studs, locks and retainers do?
Thanks.
I am getting the Crane 210/224 camshaft, so I will need new springs.
As for leaks, the car has 64,000 miles and I have not had a single problem with. It's the most reliable car I've had. But I guess I should change the seals while I'm in there. Won't hurt any and it's not too much $$.
Also, our 93's have hardened pushrods, correct? no need to swap those.
And clarify for me if you can. It's my understanding that guide plates keep the rockers in alignment with the pushrods. Pushrods should be hardened to handle the added stress from larger RR's. Springs are needed to handle lift over .500". Do springs slide over the studs?(or is it the retainers that keep the springs in place and the studs that hold them on the head?) Basically, what do studs, locks and retainers do?
Thanks.
#5
Rockers screw onto the studs. 7/16 studs are stronger then stock 3/8 studs. Pretty basic. Retainers go on the top of your spring, and the locks slide into the retainers, and hold your valves to the top of the springs. The locks sit in the top of the retainers.
#7
Pushrods should be hardened to handle the added stress from larger RR's.
Pushrods need to be hardened due to the fact that they rub on the guide plates on non self aligning rocker setup.. non hardened would scrape away and metal would get into your oil etc..
Pushrods need to be hardened due to the fact that they rub on the guide plates on non self aligning rocker setup.. non hardened would scrape away and metal would get into your oil etc..
#8
So absolutely do NOT go with say Comp Cams guideplates? I am about to be installing Comp cams pro mag 7/16 roller rockers (1.6) into my 94 Trans Am. I was aware that guideplates are needed. I was also recommended to use the GMPP guideplates.
Now, are my pushrods out of my 105k 94 Trans am okay, or should I just go ahead and get new ones in there?
ALso, someone suggested going with ARP bolts. Are you referring to the 7/16 roller rocker studs?
Thanks
Now, are my pushrods out of my 105k 94 Trans am okay, or should I just go ahead and get new ones in there?
ALso, someone suggested going with ARP bolts. Are you referring to the 7/16 roller rocker studs?
Thanks
#9
Hey, can you please post that GMPP guideplate part number. I am using Comp guide plates on mine. I pulled a few pushrods and didn't noticed any rubbing but the motor has less than 300 miles on it. Don't want to screw it up because of guideplates. DOH!!
#12
Originally posted by PoorMan
Hey, can you please post that GMPP guideplate part number. I am using Comp guide plates on mine. I pulled a few pushrods and didn't noticed any rubbing but the motor has less than 300 miles on it. Don't want to screw it up because of guideplates. DOH!!
Hey, can you please post that GMPP guideplate part number. I am using Comp guide plates on mine. I pulled a few pushrods and didn't noticed any rubbing but the motor has less than 300 miles on it. Don't want to screw it up because of guideplates. DOH!!
#13
Originally posted by Black_95Formula
I believe GM started to put hardened pushrods in '95... but I could be wrong.
I believe GM started to put hardened pushrods in '95... but I could be wrong.
Can anyone else chime in here?