LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

new pics of my lt1 383 stroker engine

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Old Nov 16, 2006 | 02:35 PM
  #31  
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I know I did not replace my heads, only had my factory ones ported on my 383 build.
My total cost including labor was around $6300.00, but I went with an all-forged (rods, pistons, and crank) bottom end. Expect a 383 to be expensive and a 396 to even MORE. My mechanic has extremely LOW labor rates too....labor for install & professional race assembly/machining was around 1800.00 of the total shown above.
My build has only around 425hp (GMPP LT4 hot cam, ML headers, 52mm TB, and ported LT1 heads)
Old Nov 16, 2006 | 04:13 PM
  #32  
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im not tring to fight, im just telling you what he told me. i just looked it up in the encyclopedia online and i didnt know this. i thought it had to with the balancing. since its called a damper-balancer. i printed it out and i will give it to him tomorrow. my 240sx wasnt made with one. and i never had a problem with it. when did they start making these for cars(mass production)my 240sx was a 91 by the way. im still learning here. it just doesnt seem like that thin piece of rubber squeezed between the metal would do anything at all. thanks for the help

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harmonic_balancer
Old Nov 16, 2006 | 04:29 PM
  #33  
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dude you are suppose to install the underdrive pulley between the hub and the balancer.. that is why the bolts that come with it are soo long.. try and place the balancer on the pulley.. bet you the price of your engine it fits.. my paypal is pr0zac623@aol.com when you find out..
Old Nov 16, 2006 | 04:40 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by red94chicken
dude you are suppose to install the underdrive pulley between the hub and the balancer.. that is why the bolts that come with it are soo long.. try and place the balancer on the pulley.. bet you the price of your engine it fits.. my paypal is pr0zac623@aol.com when you find out..

i already know this. i knew this when i bought the pulley. i just didnt think after balancing all the internals including the crank with the pulley that i would need a balancer because i balanced everything internaly. i didnt know that it was for vibrations and not balancing.
Old Nov 16, 2006 | 06:23 PM
  #35  
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Don't sweat it.. Nobody's trying to bust your chops here, just trying to educate a little and help save an engine (a persons entry into heaven is directly proportional to the number of small block chevy's saved)


There is ALWAYS something on the engine somewhere that serves to dampen the crank harmonics. It can be in the form of a rubber drive belt in an overhead cam engine, or a damper on the crank snout. It could be in the back of the engine where you wouldn't necessarily see it. In the case of your older 240SX, I'm pretty sure it was similar to the camaro in that the crank hub was a pulley/damper combo. Can be hard to see sometimes...

Anyway, just take a little advice here and insist that the damper go on that motor, no matter what that nimrod mechanic says is acceptable.

Dave C.
Old Nov 16, 2006 | 07:03 PM
  #36  
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i dont want to get him mad. he might charge more. jk but he really is a great guy, and a friend.
Old Nov 17, 2006 | 12:07 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by nick3
i talked to the machanic about it. and he said that the hole engine assembley was balanced with the pulley, and the pulley itself was balanced. he said i dont need the damper because of this. he has been building camaros since i was in dipers and his dad before him. his own camaro 383 does not have a damper on it and he said he has had it like that for 5 years and never had a problem. he just went to a smaller pulley and had it balaced just the same as mine and he is pushing out near 800hp with a 200 shot. also the machine shop said it would be fine and they do this for a living. they do the best work ive seen. you dont even know the car is runing when they get done with there balancing. and the smaller pulley helps in balacing it out also. he said that we would know when we start it up and test drive it if we need to put the damper back on. the car will have a shake in it.

he used shorter bolts because the bolts that came with the kit were to long because they were suppost to be used with the damper. i should not have a charging issue either because the alternator is 180amps. what does the opti have to do with the bolts?(bolts to long)
He may have some experience, but with the money you are spending its a pretty big risk to not run a dampener. Is this a cruiser, race car or daily driver?
Old Nov 17, 2006 | 06:04 AM
  #38  
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its mostly street (anything goes) daily driver, and strip only a few times a year. ive seen the debate alot now that ive been looking it up, its mostly old school racers verse new school. it even talked about the debate in the wikipedia.
Old Nov 17, 2006 | 08:08 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by nick3
its mostly street (anything goes) daily driver, and strip only a few times a year. ive seen the debate alot now that ive been looking it up, its mostly old school racers verse new school. it even talked about the debate in the wikipedia.
I'd rather lose the .7 rwhp (just a guestimate) from the extra rotating mass and be safe, than chance it.
Old Nov 17, 2006 | 07:27 PM
  #40  
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i have to get longer bolts but im going to put it on. there is no time involved, and just bolts right up. i dont even have to take the belt off. this engine is going to create so much hp, so im not worried about it. its beter to be safe then sorry. we are going to wait until we crank it to see if we have any vibrations first, then put it on.
Old Nov 17, 2006 | 11:15 PM
  #41  
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Exclamation Balancer

Well you looked it up (Wikipedia) they say even the pro's still use one! If it were me just for piece of mind I would install it even before I cranked it over. But that just me, and I wouldn't take the chance. Dude it's your enigne, your money. I just think the people here are just trying to save you a little and not bust your chops. I the mech. is a nice guy and a friend then he should understand. By the way it really is one sweet engine.
Old Nov 18, 2006 | 09:45 AM
  #42  
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What Jamie and everyone else is trying to tell you, don't even start it without the dampener on it. You could shorten the life of the bearings in just a few minutes. Nice engine by the way, I'm jealous.
Old Nov 18, 2006 | 10:47 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by nick3
we are going to wait until we crank it to see if we have any vibrations first, then put it on.
Most likely you won't feel the vibrations, but they'll still be there. Just put it on before you start it.
Old Nov 18, 2006 | 02:27 PM
  #44  
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it will go on. i found the original damper and turned it over and seen that it is balanced(drilled holes). it will go on untill i get the performance balancer for the higher rpms. what kind of rpms will the stock damper hold up to? thanks for the help, and the complements. i can get a thick head sometimes.
Old Nov 19, 2006 | 04:12 PM
  #45  
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she fired up today. it sounds great. i will take pics of the exhaust system and post it tomorrow. there are a few kinks to work out, its running rich because of one of the o2 sensors not being pluged in.(wire needs to be extended) then there is just the msd, and my brake control unit. if everything goes good tomorrow she will be sitting im my driveway.



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