If you read some of the articles from TPSI you will find that they would go racing and would need to pull the engine occasionally. While at the track, out the bottom was not an option. They came up with this "tool" to make their job faster.

 

New???? TPIS was selling the Happy Hooker in 1995......

Did you catch the first sentence in the article?

 

That happy hooker thing has always scared the begeesus out of me. The thought of bolting all that weight to those tiny little fuel rail bolt holes is pretty damn scary.

Out the bottom ftw.

 

I have a Happy Hooker, and I like it pretty well.







No problems taking engine and tranny out togeather, though I was a little nervous about it at first, it worked quite well.

 

X2 on that! I think those fuel rail bolts are 8mm each.

WD

 

Figure the dia of the 4 bolts together and see if you can break that dia with 600lbs.
Happy Hooker works very well. Taking the nose off depends on the length of your cherry picker. Most need the nose off.
That dia is 4x8mm=32mm=1.26in or a bit over 1-1/4" A 1-1/4" shackle is a 12 ton capacity unit and that isn't the super duty shackle.

 

Your math is wrong... The area of each 8mm bolt is 50.265 , but each bolt can snap independent of the others so totaling them isn't the same as a single bolt, but still it only comes in at 201.06. Your super duty shackle has a total area of 804.25, which is 4 times the combined 8mm bolts, however it is purpose built for lifting loads as opposed to the intake bolts that are meant to only hold the injector rails in place. The load bearing capabilities of a certain diameter of the same metal is not linear so you can't say that since the 1.25" shackle holds 12 tons then the 4 bolts should hold 3 tons. I don't think the shackle/intake bolt is a fair comparison and i'm not even touching the side loading issues.

Just my 2¢

 

never tried pulling it out the bottom. Ive had the motor in and out the top 2 times, and the second time only took a few hours once I got the hang of it. That was with the hood and the nose on, with a cherry picker, and 4 ft of chain.

 

There is NO WAY I would trust that thing to pull an engine let alone an engine and tranny. Those fuel rail bolts are small to begin with and the intake isn't the hardest metal made.. I would be worrying about threads ripping out. I will stick to pulling from the bottom, however I have pulled from the top with a standard engine hoist and chain, it's not that big of a deal.

 

You do not use your OEM rail bolts. You use the supplied ( 8.8 3 F )stainless bolts

After removal and installation of the engine and tranny I checked out all the bolts no stretching or anything. even the supplied washers didnt bend.

 

What units are you using? The actual bolts have a major diameter of 5.8mm, but let's give the benefit of the doubt and use the pitch diameter of 4.4mm. Assuming a (very) low tensile strength, 70ksi, stainless steel is used, I'm calculating that you could lift a 6600lb load with 4 bolts. At a small fraction of their load capacity, you can combine cross-section areas for calculation purposes because none are going to fail.

For practical purposes, load capacity (not strength) is linearly proportional to cross sectional area. The load capacity-diameter relationship is ^2 (as area relates to the square of radius).

 

I pulled mine thru the top with the intake off. I used the lifter retainer bosses in the lifter valley. They are a 5/16 thread, I believe. I'll be pulling mine again in the next few weeks. Missing clips for the comp r's

 

how high does the car need to be raised?

 

pretty much the highest you can get it. I used a 5 ton jack, got it the highest it will go, put a set of jackstands underneath it, and that was enough. That and a large friend sitting on the back bumper

 

Out the bottom "how to"...

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/348183/6