I just put a new clutch in my camaro and started it up and it the clutch wont fully engage and now there are metal shaving on the clutch fork after running for about a min. It would start grinding when I would push in the clutch pedal....any ideas???
Thanks,
Adam

 

I pulled it all back apart and didnt see anywhere that the shaving could have come from and the clutch disk still looks like it did when it came out of the box...I put it back together and its not making the noise anymore but the clutch wont fully engage. It will engage enough for me to get it in all gears except reverse. Do you all think I need a longer rod on the slave cylinder or what????
Thanks,
Adam

 

I don't know if this will help any, but I just finished putting my single turbo 383 back in my 96 TA, and had the same problem, only the clutch was the one I was using on the old motor. The clutch fork is contacting the pressure plate, and shaving off some Al, when I push the clutch in. My current theory is that the crank on the new motor sticks out just a bit more than the old motor. I'm gonna clearance the fork 1/4", and cut the pivot block down 1/4" that will give me plenty of clearance between the fork, and the clutch.

 

Thanks for the reply...I know the shavings I had were aluminum, but when I took it all back apart I didnt see any marks on the pressure plate...but the only place there were shavings were on the fork...and why wouldnt it do this with the stock parts...should I just use the old pressure plate with the new clutch???
Thanks,
Adam

 

I just put a longer rod in the slave and found out that the shaving are coming from the clutch fork hitting the pressure plate....why would it be doing this now...it never did this before, and how can I fix it...should I put my old pressure plate back in with the new clutch or what????
Thanks,
Adam

 

I'm trying to figure this out myself. I plan on clearancing the fork. It will only take a little bit to clear it. Wear on the fork, and pivot ball might be causing it.

 

AS far as the replacement of the clutch, the fork shouldnt be contacting the pressure plate, is it in there crooked maybe? You also use a new pressure plate, unless you just were replacing the disk with a new. If your clutch was going, you need to replace the pressure plate too,

 

I didnt think the the fork should be contacting the PP...I didnt know that the fork could go on crooked...how do you know if its on straight or not..it looks like it is. And I did use a new clutch and PP. I just dont know if I should try putting the old PP back in or not....
Thanks,
Adam

 

Are you sure that the clutch fork is all the way on? I had simular problems when I installed the Spec stage 2. I would get it all bolted up, try out the clutch pedal, and it felt ok, but then really stiff and wouldn't always return all the way. Take the cylinder back off and the fork had dropped down and was wedging against the spacer. This did cause a few very small shavings. Turned out the fork was never all the way on. I had to use a big flathead screwdriver and pried against the fork and the spacer untill it popped up and on. Another thing that was happening was I could switch gears but then it wasn't dissengaging all the way. I could push the car when it was still in gear.

Aaron