new block
new block
Does anyone know the part # for a new from GM lt1 block. I blew mine up, put a hole in the #5 cylinder wall, oil pan, and broke a rod, lifters, cam, everything. I am leaning towards buying a new block since ebay blocks scare me. I plan on buying a new one and just building a 381, leave the block alone, just get it honed, and put a 383 rotating assembly in, forged everything. So basically im asking if this is the best idea and for the part# and the price? thanks
I checked my books and also have asked GM about this before. They do not list a part number for just a block. They only sell short blocks for the LT1. Or should I say the least amount of engine you can get is a short block.
just buy a used block machine it and call it good. its just as good as a new one. an Lt1 block should cost you $300 at MOST- id say $200.
Casting number for LT1 block is 327, no relation to the 327ci sbc.
Casting number for LT1 block is 327, no relation to the 327ci sbc.
The thing is that since I need a new block anyway, if it costs me $500 or $600 from GM id love to save the money on machining a used block, probably another $500 to bore it. It seems way more practical to buy a new block and build a 381, since used blocks can have tiny fractures that machining can not fix, if i get it magnafluxed xrayed and all that bull****, you still cant fix it so im out $200/$300 bucks.
The full casting number for the LT1 block is:
10125327
The same number is used for both the 2-bolt and 4-bolt blocks. As far as I know, GM stopped making LT1 blocks at least 3 years ago. I tried back then for a new 4-bolt block for my stroker and couldn't find one. Every once in a while, a dealer will find a small batch of blocks or engines... about a year ago, Burt Chevrolet in Denver was selling some 4-bolt marine short blocks he has found in a warehouse.
If you are going to build a stroker, just get a used block, get it magnafluxed and thickness checked and then start the machine work.
10125327
The same number is used for both the 2-bolt and 4-bolt blocks. As far as I know, GM stopped making LT1 blocks at least 3 years ago. I tried back then for a new 4-bolt block for my stroker and couldn't find one. Every once in a while, a dealer will find a small batch of blocks or engines... about a year ago, Burt Chevrolet in Denver was selling some 4-bolt marine short blocks he has found in a warehouse.
If you are going to build a stroker, just get a used block, get it magnafluxed and thickness checked and then start the machine work.
So injuneer, you think I would be alright buying a block off ebay? It kinda scares me, but I guess I dont really have a choice. What kind of things should I look for? And is there maybe a better more reputable place than EBAY? Also how much am I looking at for machining 20 or 30 over, balancing, and assembly of the shortblock?
www.cmotorsports.com
they might sell a machined block- i know they will sell you a rotating assembly for close to what you will pay for a new block, machine work, parts, balancing, assembly, parts, and all the little headaches. Plus its waranteed
they might sell a machined block- i know they will sell you a rotating assembly for close to what you will pay for a new block, machine work, parts, balancing, assembly, parts, and all the little headaches. Plus its waranteed
I just rebuilt a shortblock 355. Machine work on block(Hot tank, Line bore and deck check, bore and hone, freeze plugs) I had them polish and balance my crank, rebuild my rods with arp bolts and balance. Install new Forged pistons. I had them assy the shortblock and also got a new oil pump and gaskets for a total of 1900.00
oh yeah. also included in that price was moly rings, racing bearings
oh yeah. also included in that price was moly rings, racing bearings
Last edited by EviLZ28; Aug 27, 2003 at 05:17 PM.
Jason Short is selling two type of blocks, one 2 bolt and one 4 bolt. Here's the link: http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...ferrerid=22266
Jody J.
Jody J.
Originally posted by EviLZ28
I just rebuilt a shortblock 355. Machine work on block(Hot tank, Line bore and deck check, bore and hone, freeze plugs) I had them polish and balance my crank, rebuild my rods with arp bolts and balance. Install new Forged pistons. I had them assy the shortblock and also got a new oil pump and gaskets for a total of 1900.00
oh yeah. also included in that price was moly rings, racing bearings
I just rebuilt a shortblock 355. Machine work on block(Hot tank, Line bore and deck check, bore and hone, freeze plugs) I had them polish and balance my crank, rebuild my rods with arp bolts and balance. Install new Forged pistons. I had them assy the shortblock and also got a new oil pump and gaskets for a total of 1900.00
oh yeah. also included in that price was moly rings, racing bearings
$3000 for a rotating assembly with NEW forged rods, NEW forged pistons, all new rings, Heavy duty timing chain, balanced, blue printed, ARP stuff and machined isn't too bad.
then again, there is the quality of the work. Pay for what you get.
Last edited by TreySpeed; Aug 27, 2003 at 07:43 PM.
Originally posted by Ashkan Mehryari
what rods? what timing chain... all that stuff taken into concideration
$3000 for a rotating assembly with NEW forged rods, NEW forged pistons, all new rings, Heavy duty timing chain, balanced, blue printed, ARP stuff and machined isn't too bad.
then again, there is the quality of the work. Pay for what you get.
what rods? what timing chain... all that stuff taken into concideration
$3000 for a rotating assembly with NEW forged rods, NEW forged pistons, all new rings, Heavy duty timing chain, balanced, blue printed, ARP stuff and machined isn't too bad.
then again, there is the quality of the work. Pay for what you get.
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