Just curious, what was your 1/8th mile ET and trap?

Nice times.

 

Here's the whole run.
2.028 60'
5.405 330'
8.158 1/8th @ 89.12
10.521 1000'
12.495@115.10
I was on nitto dr's but my slp clutch didnt like taking the abuse from big burnouts so I really couldn't heat them up or slip it on the launch. I was bogging it pretty much every time. I trapped 91mph a couple times in the 1/8th but my guess is thats either me shifting right before the trap in the 1/8th or right after since thats right around my shift point, and when i trapped 91mph my 1/4 trap wasnt any higher.
And I know that bigger cams will make more power, I'm just proving these tiney cams can put out decent #'s too. I want to put in a gm 846 (222/230) cam sometime in the future and see how that performs, but I love having it drive like stock and you can barley hear the lope so it is a sleeper. Choices, choices....

 

Nice times!!! What was the DA on the run? Any plans to dyno it?

 

Thanks for posting that. I was trying to get a comparison to one of my runs. I ran an 8.18 in the 1/8th at 87 mph. I might be a tick slower than you on the big end due to the auto vs. manual thing though.

 

Allow me to point something out that apparently is not obvious:

It doesn't cost anymore to install a large cam than a small cam. Opting for one or the other is just that--an option.

So "bragging" and "rights" don't even go together when it comes to cam size any more than "my car is louder than your's car". JMHO

 

Well there is alot more that is involved with a valvestrain than just a cam. When you run a small cam, you can get away with much cheaper springs because of low lift and low RPM. You can also run stock lifters. If you think that it costs the same to run a small cam than a larger one, then you are just misinformed.

I used to run a small cam in my old formula and it was cheap as hell to setup. I ran on cc305, stock rockers, stock lifters, stock pushrods, LT4 springs, steel retainers, stock tune with minor adjustments....

My new setup has comp-r lifters, pro mag rockers, beehive valvesprings, moly pushrods, and Im gonna be tuning this car for quite a while.... needless to say, it is ALOT more expensive.

I see it alot like turbos. A bigger turbo will take longer to spool, which is exactly why supras with massive turbos dont run much better times than those with a little smaller. But you wont see many turbo cars running in the 9s on stock turbos. There is a point where you can overcam a car, but you can also undercam it.

 

It's all relative: If you want to put "cheap" parts in just because you don't care about quality or integrity, that (again) is an option. If you choose a different cam, e.g, a "small" cam, you are still going to have to go with new springs. And if you want to improve the performance of the "small" cam, you may want to go with RRS and a higher lift RR and probably new lifters if they are well worn.

But the major cost of installing a cam (if you don't do it yourself) is the labor cost. And it is not going to cost you anymore to stick in a bigger cam because you still have to do the rest of the valve train to maximize the perforomance of the cam. It would be foolish to install just a cam without dealing with the rest of the valve train.JMHO

 

My guess is it was around ~1000. It was in the mid-low 70's when I ran that time. I'm going to try to dyno it monday if I have time.

 

Great time/speed, the cam I'm putting in its pretty close to the crane specs so I'm glad to see those results. As for the whole cam size issue, I love the performance and sound of a large cam, but I'm gald I can make good power and still be some what stealthy about it, and not have a smog issue. But I agree with that even though you can get away with stock parts on a small cam its better to upgrade while you're at it. I bought good springs, retainers, lifters, valves, and all just because of milage and piece of mind.

 

I love the misconception that "bigger is better"

My baby cam helped me get exactly what I wanted outta my car - emissions legal 12's with shorty headers, small gearing, small stall, etc...

I'll spray to the 11's this year using this same combination. I don't want to go any faster than that due to financial reasons - the more power your making the more chance there is of breaking parts ie - tranny $$$, beefier rear $$$, etc...

Yeah you can bust these parts on probably 250rwhp but when your at 400rwhp you have more chance of doing so...

 

I seem to be doing pretty well with just a cam and bolt ons. And actually, the most important thing is traction. There is a reason why I am half a second quicker, but 2mph slower.

 

....3

 

6-6100 I need to get it dyno'd since I was just guessing on the shift points.

 

I'm just too much of a ***** to launch it hard because I don't want to break the 10 bolt.

 

Please put up the graph when you get it dynoed.