You had 8.5 quarts in the pan What kind of pan holds 8.5 quarts? Remember the recent thread by Javier97Z28 where he lost oil pressure? Ended up being too much oil in the pan and windage from the crank was pulling oil away from the pump pickup.

 

I had the exact experience with the cast steel eagle crank myself, BOTH of them!!!

I had one and didnt look that over, just had it balanced, assembled the car and 1 year later I just happened to be adding an underdrive pulley and when I pulled on the balancer after unbolting it the crank moved forward about a 16th of an inch with a thunk!!! Needless to say the K member was dropped and the pan pulled, the back of the thrust bearing was ate up to the metal, crank ruined. Since I was short on funds I turned a new bearing in after polishing the crank by hand (in the block). I drove it like this for a year, then bought a new Eagle cast steel crank. I had the machinist check it and he said that the rear thrust surface was very rough and he polished the crank !!!!

 

whats the deal, it seems like no ones rebuild last. what does the factory do that makes them that much better

**** my stock short block finally died, but hell i cant even count how many passes i got out of it. got the car at around 40k and started racing it just about every other weeked... around 80k the only miles i put on it was to and from the track. and it still lasted another 15k after that. and that 15k was probably about 3-4 years

 

i am not sure how it was balanced i will have to find out, the pan doent hold 8.5 quarts but i run a 1 quart filter and have the canton pan which is like 7. Thanks for the idea on the crank i will have to check that, the motor id currently at the machine shop so i will call tomorrow

Thanks Scott

 

I would take the short block to another engine builder and get then to check the specs, it sounds like someboby wasn't checking clearances when they put it together. Is there any kind of warrenty on short block, should be at least 30 days or so.

 

Sorry to hear of your predicament....is it a predicament, ie, is the shop going to make good or not? I'm sure many here have similar stories (nightmares) they could share...

I'm afraid it just one of those situations where something went wrong---for one reason or another---and that no one is going to fess up (either because they don't know what happened or why or because they don;t want to have to foot the bill to make it good. I hope that they make things good for you, but it's been my unfortunate experience that they probably won't.

Good luck.

 

I don't think that was the case. I have a 388 and my factory windage tray wouldn't clear so I didn't use one and I run a 7qt pan with a HV oil pump and no windage problem with mine or problem with the oil pickup not getting anything. My pressure is usually 70 psi cold (like advertised on pump) and 20 idle and 40 at speeds. You don't neccesarily have to use a windage tray or baffle. I only have a trap door in my pan.

 

another thought a couple people had was detonation but after pulling the plugs and rod caps that does not apper top be the problem either. Is it possoble for a cast crank to flex? The motor started losing pressure right after i did two small pulls from 3-6k which should be a walk in the park because i will probably end up shifting 6700 or so. I cant really think of any other reason that the 3 center mains would go and not the others. If it had an oiling problem i wouldnt have thought it would have lasted tha long. If it was dirt or something like that wouldnnt it have taken all of them out?

Thanks Scott

 

For one thing, they use a quality cast crankshaft and the parts are all matched to function well together and tested to last . And they are automated to the point that there is a lot of consistency as compared to a guy in a machine shop or garage. A hand-built engine could end up better or worse than the stock engine, depends on a lot of factors, but it's still hard to get them to last as long. Probably cause we beat on them

 

A cast crank will flex quite a bit, actually thats what some consider to be the strong point of a cast crank.

 

It might have been flex,but this should have been allowed for in the clearances. How much boost ya running?
If it's over 8# ya need a 4130 forged crank anyhow.

 

I have the eagle nodular iron crank. I believe it is still the cast steel but alot stronger. I haven't had problems, cost me $600 in the machine shop and my car is still strong @ 2,500 Miles. You just have to do everything right and fit it all together and get the right combinations, which is why alot of engines fail, also do to ragging on them 24/7, it's proven that High Performance parts shorten the life of your engine, and shorten decrease liability.

 

Sounds to me like the guy at performance engineering goofed. He either installed the wrong bearings or didn't align hone it properly. You need to get some measurements on that motor by another engine builder to see what happened. I highly doubt it had anything to do with balancing, detonation, or crank flex - you didn't rev it high enough. I also do not think it had anything to do with the new cast crankshaft, that is highly unlikely. I don't like what his response was to the possible problem, he should have offered to pull the motor apart and diagnose it.

Anyway, good luck with your situation.

 

How's it going? Where is the engine? Are they going to analyze the problem or just take a wild guess? The bottom line here is---the shop is either going to admit that they screwed up or you are going to have to go over the whole scenario and determine if it was something that you did, i.e., wrong combination of parts, specifications, etc.

Why?----because if you order a shop to do something without complete understanding and agreement as to what is to be done and the expected results, most shops will just do what you ask them to do, using your specs, your parts, your instructions without question (because that's what they do---and it doesn't include helping you make the right decisions regarding the combination, specs, parts, etc.

The result is much like you are experiencing---something bad happened and no one knows why. And since if the shop admits to doing something wroing, then they should agree to fix it. However, since it is going to cost them bucks, they are probably going to deny that it was their fault and refuse to foot the bill. In which case you have 2 options: Chalk it up to bad karma and take a walk, or have a serious sit down with them and work something out that will work for both of you.

You probably are not going to get everything you want, but it may be better than nothing---and forget about threats, law suits, etc.

I hope that none of what I have said here is needed. I hope that things work out for you.JMHO

 

Well I see you live in Michigan so you have to be close to me if your using Performance Eng.

I have had all my work done by them, heads, Block, ect. and never had a problem with them at all.
I know people make mastakes and it's posible they did but if you bring it back to them I'm sure they will take care of you.
The Eagle cranks have a tendancey to be crooked from what I know and they usualy have to have the mains redone and oversized bearings used.