I see header how about full exhaust should be good for 10 hp.

 

Hey, never said I'd recommend regular usage of that. That was a special mix for racing. I think I know about the different densities, separation rates--my grandfather used to play with the stuff in motorcycles and he help'd me out. Of course I had a laptop plugged in and monitored BLMs. As for the oil deal, a half quart for a 1/4 mile run won't hurt a dammm thing. Since all the oil is forced towards the back where the pickup is, on a stock panned f-body a 1/2 quart low is no prob. The benefit to the full oil pan is cooler long term running temps. Don't have that problem in a 1/4 mile burst. Go out to your car and pull the dipstick out. See the hashes? That's called the NORMAL OPERATING RANGE, as in "this range is okay. A half quart less than recommended isn't quite halfway down the hashes.
I will admit that I suppose I should have been a bit more clear w/ the nitromethane, it can mess someone up that doens't know how to use pretty quick, but it's gonna float if it separates (which takes about 6 hours completely still in 93 octane, SO unless a person burns down to the last 6 ounces in the tank, everytime.
As for the "WASTED $250 for an afpr" comment.....you paid $250 for an AFPR?!!!? Hey man, can I sell you a set of copper plugs for $15 each??? Where did you pay that?? And yeah, when he does the cam, the programmer will adjust the injector pulsewidth but almost ANY programmer will tell you to adjust your fuel pressure manually. Injectors (up to the lock-up point) atomize fuel better w/ higher pressure. High pressure accompanied by short bursts from the injectors will improve idle, gas mileage (when you're out of it) and emissions. Many people have picked up a tenth here or there by playing w/ the fuel pressure on the stock setup. Those factory fuel regulators are MASS PRODUCED. Even GM service manuals say "a + or - 4psi condition at idle w/ the vacuum line disconected is NOMINAL." Well that's all fine and dandy for your average performance for an average consumer but do you want to try to tell me that an 8(in low rpms) and up to probably 10psi(higher rpms) is going to give you equal performance???? Sorry bud but at WOT the computer goes by a programmed set of parameters, NOT sensor readings. So you car might be running Xm/s pulsewidth w/ a car putting out 35psi of fuel and another car will put out the same Xm/s pultwidth w/ 43psi. Don't even bother arguing your way out of that. Go check out TPIS.com. I'm not telling you that because I know this from reading it off there. That just happens to be a company who knows there stuff and I use their products. They have (used to have) multiple dyno charts on the same car showing that even a 2 lb change could make a 7 or 8 hp difference...you do the math. Then email pcmforless or tpis or hypertech, or vinci hiperformance, or norris, or Agostino, ANYONE that does programming and ask them if they recommend bumping up your fuel pressure w/ their program. Some might say you can get away w/ not doing it on stock injectors, but still recommend it; but as soon as you go to bigger injectors, its MUCH easier to achieve a good idle if you increase the pressure @ the fuel rail and shorten up the pulses.....and I'm spent.