"feels strong" doesn't mean much, just probably means it feels stronger than stock.

I have met a LOT of folks who thought they had a fast car till they took it to the track and proved otherwise.

One guy in the staging lanes was all uppity about his 70s BBC Vette, when my turd of a Caprice beat him by over 2 full seconds he drove right out of the gate after getting his slip.

I would use stock heads untouched before Patriot, read about too many catastrophic failures on other applications stuff like valve seats falling out which stops the valve from closing and then the piston gets friendly with the valve. So I would not assume that just because he has aftermarket heads they are any improvement, they might turn out to be a huge liability.

 

i realy like the cc503 for a street cam... its an old tried and true cam... but AI and LE have great cams too... i run a AI blower cam in my SS... but ive personaly ran these cams in my cars.. cc503 (fav. NA/nitrous cam to date) GM847 (sounds great) GM846 (not too bad in a blower setup) and now this AI custom grind....

 

My dads 95 t/a a4 with long tubes, cats, and hotcam put down in the 320-325rwhp iirc as its been a good 5-10 yrs ago since it was done. Just has a hotcam file my tuner got online and with a little messing around got it running nicely. Car works great with 3.42s just needs a tranny build and quality stall to make it even more fun to drive. Its not the fastest car but it keeps my old man happy.

 

No bro,lol... Im not in search of a fake dyno sheet.LOL. Im in search of getting what I was paying for which is 400rwhp. Thanks though.

 

I agree.... Ive had other cars with built motors but carb motors not injected. I personally didnt feel the car had 400rwhp & thats why I got on here to ask you guys who have been messing with LT1s for a while. I just didnt think 320-340. lol.... Was hoping it at least would be 380rwhp after dyno tune. I coulda lived with that & just told the guy his equation for 400rwhp is 20 off in the wrong direction so he could fix it & not tell the next person an unintentional lie. But yeah Ive seen plenty of guys roll up thinking they had fast rides. Really they are just annoyingly loud...LOL

 

You want 400HP? Ditch EVERYTHING your mechanic has done with the top end, heads cam and all, and pick up a set of 190cc or 200cc castings from AI, install them, have it tuned, then crap your pants.

 

Thanks for that advice, I would do it but Im not exactly made of $$$. so I will make the best out of what i have & shoot for this 350 mark some people say is obtainable. There seems to be a few who have achieved this with similar set ups so I will let you guys know as soon as I can afford a Dyno tune. But before the dyno tune Im gonna go ahead & upgrade the clutch to a spec 2? She does slip quite a bit if I accelerate to hard. Is the spec 2 upgrade good enough like the mechanic said or should I look at something else?

 

Spec 2 should be fine for the 320-350 but wouldn't hold 400 rwhp...

Not to play devils advocate I believe the Hot Cam package which includes heads intake rockers and hot cam advertised as having 375-400 hp cant remember right now but that is Flywheel HP... I believe it was sold in summit racing but can't find it now...

 

The LT4 HOT conversion kit has heads and intake and the absolute best perfect world can't hope to duplicate it power from that was 425flywheel hp by a magazine, as has been covered already with good heads and cam numbers approaching that are achievable at the rear wheel with properly ported LT1 heads.

The LT4 cam is available as a kit with cam, rockers and springs and as said a number of times hear already 325ish rwhp is fairly typical for it.

 

That is right as long as you like how the car runs than its good.

 

You can't seem to understand.... it's not about a "number" on a dyno sheet. It's about how it performs in the real world. Take it to the track, and decide if you can live with the results. Nothing else matters.

 

Just saying what was advertised... for what ever reason the Hot Cam has more money invested in advertisement than R&D... Many people that are not on these forums will think its the best thing for the LT1s I remember about 7-8 years ago when I was choosing a cams for my Lt1 the hot cam was all I would hear about outside the forum... After researching this forum went with a cc306 with used AFR heads which was great ti me...

Currently i'm mid build on a 355 with LE2 heads 23*, .6** lift cam from LE and like a 12+:1 compression... should be fun

 

The "425HP" claim for the LT4 conversion kit was based on dyo tests by MORE Performance in 1996 or 1997. The tests were misleading:

-the engine was run on an engine dyno, bare, with no accessories. Compare that to the factory SAE Net method, that requires that all the standard equipment/accessories be installed on the engine, including the full intake and exhaust system.

-the engine was tuned using a $3,000+ MoTeC ECU, with capabilites way beyond a stock PCM. I know what they can do... I have one.

-there were numerous modifications that were not really clear to the casual observer, including upgrades to the TB, long tube headers, much larger injectors, and I suspect many more that altered the results.

In effect, the test was rigged. And its a shame that outfits like Summit and Scoggin-Dickey continue to use the misleading data.

 

Not for sure, but it seems as though Summit prints whatever the manufacturer tells them in the item description. They post things like the TB Spacers adding HP and TQ to fuel injected motors and exhaust systems adding up to 30hp, and CAI systems adding 20hp.

It is frustrating to me that so many people are mislead by reading a single caption or ad. "So if I buy a CAI that adds 20, a catback that adds 30hp, and a TB Spacer that adds 10hp, that means I'll have an additional 60hp right?"

Its the way the world works- make a product that appears to perform, advertise it cleverly and you can make a fortune...

 

A quick question guys, I might be able to pick up a stock LT1 intake manifold. Is it worth having it messed with I.E. port/polish it then put it on my motor with the mods I already have? What is the typical gain in doing something like this? Just wanted to get most of what I can from this motor before dishing out nearly 500.00 for the dyno tune. THANKS!!!