Anyone have the (correct) pn and/or source for the REAR fuel lines (feed & return)? I see Shoebox has the info for the FRONT lines, but nothing for the rear. I checked w/ Hawks (they have the front), but no info yet. Junkyard isn't a good option, as I would need to yank the tank to get them out--if I could even find a 93 - 97 Z28 around here (very rare). I did the trap door, so replacing them isn't an issue.

If there is no pn or source for these, can I just make them? The return line has quick-connect @ both ends, and the feed has quick-connect @ the tank. Are the rear lines the same as the front (i.e., 3/8 & 5/16)? Is it possible to get lines for a diff vehicle to work?

Any info is much appreciated.

 

See if this is what you're looking for. According to the parts manual, the 1993 lines are a one year only part and 1994-1997 covers the rest of the LT1 years.

 

I seen examples of people going to AN fittings and braided lines. Might be an option.

 

Russel makes push lock to AN fittings, where anything after that is up to your imagination.

 

Thanks for the info. I checked the pn's, and they are discontinued/out-of-stock/etc., so that's out. Did call the stealership today and was told GM no longer makes fuel lines--ya gotta do it yourself, as both Wes & Drew suggest. I saw somewhere that Dorman makes a kit for this, so I'll check it out and see what it is. I could go w/o the feed line, but really need the return.

If you have contact info or a link for anyone who makes fuel lines, please pass it along. I'm not sure if I could do it myself, and I sure don't wanna screw it up.

 

My local speed shop makes custom lines if you are wanting to go with the push lock to an adapters.

https://www.figspeed.com/

 

Pulled the return line yesterday and learned why the FSM says 'yank the tank'; if you do a trap door, it's a PITA getting the lines in/out, even if you cut the door over the quick connects, like both Pioneer and I did. Despite loosening the tank straps & letting the tank drop a bit to make more room, I still hadda cut the line to pull it thru. I cut it up top, just behind the quick connect, and found a hole big enuff to slide a 16-penny nail thru it. Gee, what moron did that??

Got a 18" repl line and a couple of nylon press-fit unions locally. Boiled the line for a while and it bends easy enuff w/o crimping. Tried 1 of the press-fits on a scrap section and they seem to work well, so I'll use that down below, rather than the metal joiner that comes w/ the line. The old line has some crimps from pulling it thru and boiling didn't help (too brittle), but there's enuff to salvage the good quick connect and attach it to the new line.

Not the ideal solution, but I'll be able to easily get to the press-fit if it ever leaks (thank gawd it's not under hi pressure)--and I didn't need to yank the tank. Just hope it holds up. Total cost ~$30.

 

Thought I had this resolved, but no. To get the lines free, I hadda take out the pump/lsu assy; repaired the return line, put everything back together, and...no pressure whatsoever. Took it all back apart to check everything--didn't see any problems--put it back together again...still the same. Never got past KOEO.

The only diff is that I repaired the return line, but that couldn't account for why I get no pressure whatsoever @ KOEO. Anyone wanna take a guess at this? I'm thinking I need to swap the pump/lsu...again. Made all the connections, etc., but is there anything I overlooked?

 

Connect the fuel pump test port directly to 12v to turn the pump directly. If you get nothing from that, the pump is likely the issue.

 

Yep, had tried that and got nuttin'. What I'm wondering is if it's possible--when I shoved the return line thru--that I got a crimp in the feed line; would that completely wax my pressure? It's really tight in there, and you can't see it at all.

If I replace the pump assy, I'm going w/ the braided AN and reroute the lines. I can see a nice clear space for it, but w/ the quick connects, you really can't reroute. Frankly, 'quick connect' is a misnomer; there's nothing 'quick' about 'em at all. I was checking out the AN and they've got connections in 45, 90 & 180 degrees, which would make it much easier to reroute thru that clear space. Have no clue how they connect to the steel lines, but lotsa guys are using 'em, so it must work.

 

If there is no ability to return, I could see it not allowing flow. You could get a gas can and pull the quick disconnect near the fuel filter then prime the pump to check for flow. You should also be able to hear the pump running.

 

I thought I heard the pump prime, but I didn't give it 12v for long. It seems odd that a new pump that was working would suddenly go bad; the only thing that changed was the return line. Think I will pull the feed line @ the filter and see what happens. If fuel pours out, I'll know it's the return line; if I still get nuttin', I'll know it's the pump.

But I'm still inclined to go AN. Just too tight in there to be working on the lines thru a trap door. For a few bucks more, I can reroute and make life much easier.

 

Dead pump...sigh. Got fuel when I pulled the line from the filter, but no pressure.

Since I need to swap it out again, Imma do what DirtyDave did. He has a posting in here re: the Aeromotive 340lph he put in, and includes a pic of the lines: nice, clean braided AN lines that go exactly where I want mine. He put something on the lip to elim. any chaffing. Found a place in Hudson that will make the lines for me, so Imma go w/ that and elim this nonsense.

 

I have a 340 right now in mine and it has been flawless. Im about to add a second pump and am still trying to figure that out.

Do you have a link for the install you were talking about?

 

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/for...l-pump-871392/

In this thread, Kevin Blown discusses the wiring he had to do, which sounds like what you're after. What caught my eye was how Kevin did the lines. The pics show he has a mod. hanger config; seems like a stock hanger could be adapted by simply using a tube cutter to whack off the extra tubing (sounds like what he did). But that brings up a few questions:

1. Those AN adapters--does the tubing need to be flared or anything? Or do they just attach to a straight tube? (Btw, the link Kevin provides is no longer valid.)

2. What about down underneath? The return line has that bump where the quick connect retaining clip goes, and the little nib @ the end; does it need to be cut off? Or will an adapter connect right to the standard steel fuel line? Since it's tough to find -5AN, can I run -6AN for the return line to the steel line underneath? Does it matter for the adapter?

3. What about the feed line? It runs to the filter; mine is hard plastic rather than steel. Will an adapter hook right up to the filter, or is modification needed? Do I need to use a steel-encased filter?

I'm not gonna do anything w/ either the vac or evap lines--just the feed & return. I might do the front lines, but not for a while.

I can RMA the Spectra unit that's bad, but will also get 2nd pump; the Spectra has all of ~15 mins. runtime on it, so I don't get a good feeling about long-term viability. Maybe a Walbro or something similar.