Need immediate help... Car wont start.. wont even try and turn over
Registered User
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 27,727
From: Little Rock, AR
Originally posted by Zepher
Ok, I figured the 3rd gen would be different. My friend that changed his lock cylinder a few weeks ago on his 92 since the wires for the VATS were broken said that the column you posted look way different.
Is there a seperate switch on our 82-92 cars as well?
Ok, I figured the 3rd gen would be different. My friend that changed his lock cylinder a few weeks ago on his 92 since the wires for the VATS were broken said that the column you posted look way different.
Is there a seperate switch on our 82-92 cars as well?
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 1,490
From: Tampa Florida
I hooked my multimeter up to the clutch switch and got .01 ohms so I know for sure its good..
With the battery still connected i put my multimeter at Volts DC and got a 12.34 reading. So all my connections are good along with my battery cables right?
So for my switch Shoebox I need to find the harness underneath the dash with the purple wire... and Im guessing There will be a red wire for power and test those. I have to take out the column to get to them right?
So the switch is the only thing thats left that could be wrong?????
We've eliminated the starter, battery connections with 12volts reading, and clutch safety switch.
With the battery still connected i put my multimeter at Volts DC and got a 12.34 reading. So all my connections are good along with my battery cables right?
So for my switch Shoebox I need to find the harness underneath the dash with the purple wire... and Im guessing There will be a red wire for power and test those. I have to take out the column to get to them right?
So the switch is the only thing thats left that could be wrong?????
We've eliminated the starter, battery connections with 12volts reading, and clutch safety switch.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 333
From: Palm Bay, Florida
>>
When you changed your starter, did you change the starter selenoid too? Or just re-use your old one? Normally, the selenoid goes, not the starter motor. If you didn't change out the selenoid then I would bet that is your problem if you hear a click when you turn the key. The selenoid is what all the wires bolt to on the starter.
-Dave C. '97 Z28
-Dave C. '97 Z28
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 1,490
From: Tampa Florida
it ended up being the body control module that sits underneath the glove box..
We hot wired 2 of the 4 wires that hook up to the relay and she fired up... it bypasses to clutch switch and the Body control module.
We swapped in 2 good relays and it wouldnt start...
The clutch switch was fine.. so the only thing left in the diagram was the body control module. $50 bucks from speed automotive.
We hot wired 2 of the 4 wires that hook up to the relay and she fired up... it bypasses to clutch switch and the Body control module.
We swapped in 2 good relays and it wouldnt start...
The clutch switch was fine.. so the only thing left in the diagram was the body control module. $50 bucks from speed automotive.
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ro2207
LT1 Based Engine Tech
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Dec 4, 2014 06:18 PM
