Hey,
I have some money that I've been saving and would love to put into my car (ONE LAST MOD) before our expected son arrives around Dec 28th 2005.
What would be a cost effective mod on a H/C car. I had been thinking of N20 or saving a little more and getting a 12 bolt with 4.11 gears.
I don't know, but time is running out. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Tim

 

suspension and nos 75 shot to 100 thats it.... Trust me if you have not got the suspebsion done it makes world of diffrence...... I have a Torque arm I still havent put on scared to because have stock rearend still...

 

Its a tough call, I agree that suspension mods will definitely wake the car up, but if you race alot and with the numbers you are putting up, a strong 12 bolt or 9 inch would also be a good idea.

 

I would say go with the new rear. Its more expensive that the other mods, and that means you should do it now. Depending on your money situation it may be hard to save up that much money again for a LONG while after having your child....so go with the rear. Small suspension mods can come piece by piece, and you won't need to save for.

 

Yeah, another vote for the rear end. Thats a big chunk right there, so if you can get it out of the way, you can always get the little stuff later.

 

Yea I vote for the rear. That is the thing most likely to break in the future with the power you are putting down. Do some preventive maintnence.

 

12 bolt

 

well, you have to remember, buying a 12 bolt or 9" (preferably a 9") would cost you more, plus some hidden fees, shipping (if you need it) and you will also have to buy a new driveshaft so you don't twist the stock one into pieces. its a pretty expensive adventure.
really, u have a good mod base already with heads/cam full exhaust, etc. I'd take that money and hide it back until you need it. drive the 10 bolt until it breaks and by then you'll have the money you need. congrats on the son. bet he'll be a christmas baby

 

Since it will be an eventuallity of the car that you will blow the rear. Its only a matter of time. Get a 12bolt, or at least something stronger.

It will cost over 2,000$ unless you can get it used and have the DS cut etc etc.

Save your money for the 12 bolt!

 

you may not have to have the d/s cut. $2400 to your door. The price differences are not enough to go with the 12 bolt so go with the 9".

 

I'll probably get flamed into the ground for this, but if you want to do something WISE with it, invest it in a college fund for your child or keep it for expenses like baby crib, room decorations, etc.

We all know modding cars is NEVER wise, but it is definitely an addiction. With that said, now on to the good stuff. If you are using it for the car, I've had the 12 bolt and loved it. Got rid of it because I didn't race enough to justify having it anymore, but back when I did race, I blew up 3 stock rear ends which were about $500 a piece to repair. I also never had to shorten my stock driveshaft. With a newborn at home, my guess is you will also not race enough to justify a 12 bolt.

Suspension (lower control arms, torque arm, subframe connectors, panhard rod, etc.) is one of the BEST mods you can do to a F-body and would get my vote if you put the money into my car. This also helps every day drivability, so it serves dual purpose.

Congrats on the baby and good luck.

 

When you swap a moser into your car, most people get 1350 series yoke which is the right one to get. You want it strong. But when you buy that you need to have a different u-joint pounded in.

Problem arises from the fact that when you install the DS, it MAY fit. If your lucky you can squeeze it in.

But what you will not has is proper slip travel for the driveshaft into the tranny tail shaft.

Most GM trannies need AT LEAST 1/2" slip travel, but no more than I think 1 and 1/2"

So disconnect your DS from the yoke while its still in the tranny and move it forward and backwards, it should have that amount of travel.

Not having that will most likely damage the tranny seal and cause a leak, as well as when you launch the car, bind up the whole driveline and break your tranny housing, Drive shaft, and yoke (not likely in a 12 bolt).

Just remember, if you move the tranny, or install a different one (TH-400), or put a larger rear end in (9" or 12 bolt) you shift the driveline and will need to accomondate the driveshaft for it. Not to mention putting Rear Lower control arm relocation brackets (EVEN IF NOT LOWERED) on so that you can dial in the instant center of the rear.

When I did mine, I didnt even mess around I went to Denny's and got a custom 3" Steel N20 ready DS. Custom fitted for the car. I measured the slip travel and came up with 1/2" exactly!!

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com

 

Well rear end is going to cost you at least 3000 dollars to have everything work right abs and ect... My freind has 12 bolt and he keeps on breaking wheels studs because the mosier rear ends tend to cause prob with stock wheels, So to get everything running right and perfect you would need close to 3k or 2500....

 

I use 95 t/a rims on my moser rear and no issues. I ordered the 33 spline axles with stock length studs.

 

he has 16 inch rims i dont know what kind of splines he has.... but the whole rear end thing will cost him 3000 gran