I have rebuilt this engine and went with the cc306 and the Cloyes double roller. The engine also has the direct ignition system from Bob on it, and 30lb ford injectors. The computer has already been tuned by Ion.

When I attempt to start the engine, I can not get it to hit. The engine turns over fast, and i am getting plenty of spark and fuel. I am wondering if the timing is set correctly. A friend stated that it sounded like it was 180 out.
When cranking, the engine popped back through the intake.

When my father set the timing chain on he stated that he pulled number 1 up to top dead center and line the timing marks up at 12 (crank) and 6 (cam). He stated then he turned the cam one complete time in order get #1 on the firing side.

Can anyone help me out and get this car running?

 

Opti installed incorrecty

 

I was thinking timing before i read anything but the title.

 

Give us some info on how you got to this point. Was the engine running before and was this just a cam swap? Double check your wires and what year is it again?

 

It is a 1997 and it has been converted to the OBD1. The history is that this engine has about 400 miles on it and the timing chain broke and during the repair I change the cam to the cc306 from the cc305. The Opti is working correctly, I went with the Cloyes Double roller chain because I have an electric water pump. My father was concerned that about setting the true time. When my father set the timing chain on he stated that he pulled number 1 up to top dead center and line the timing marks up at 12 (crank) and 6 (cam). He stated then he turned the cam one complete time in order get #1 on the firing side.

In reference to the wires, I have the Direct Ignition frob bob and the wires are going from one coil directly above the plug, so I do not think any of them are crossed. I have sent the brain box back to bob and he up graded it and stated it was working correctly.

I am going back tomorrow and inspect everything.

Details about the engine:
355 with home ported heads and 2 inch valves
cc306 cam
adj fuel reg, 255 fuel pump, with 30 lbs for injectors
Electric Water Pump
Direct ignition
Long Tube headers
Programmed by Ion


I do have plenty of fire and 50 psi of fuel.

 

ok so the timing chain broke then you installed a cam and a new chain? im sorry to tell you but on a lt1 if you break a timing cahin...i think like most sbc...you have bent valves...
if youve got fuel and spark then you have no compression?

if the spark is at the wrong time it should backfire through intake or exhaust...

 

So you have the LTCC from Bob Bailey? If so, did you pull the cover off and look at the LED's to see if the system is working correctly? RED LED, Briefly illuminates at Key On. GREEN LED, should stay a solid/constant ON condition once the engine is cranked and the LTCC synchronizes with the Opti. If the GREEN LED flashes or doesn't illuminate, then something is incomplete regarding the Opti's signal or the Opti's wiring. Now, on that timing chain setup... He put the crank/cam at 12/6, THEN rotated the cam so that the dots were 12/12 before installing the bolts? I've never done that and I've built at least a dozen SBC/LT1's. I have two Z28's in the driveway with engines I've assembled and just put the crank/cam at 12/6. It's true that pistons 1/6 are both at TDC at the same time but it sounds to me that the cam phasing would be 180 out. It would seem that cylinder 1 would be on it's exhaust cycle while number 6 would be on the compression cycle when 1/6 were near/at TDC with the cam phasing you describe.

 

For a quick test to see if it's the cam 180 out and you have the LTCC, put the
coil wire labeled 1 on the coil for cylinder 6
coil wire labeled 6 on the coil for cylinder 1

coil wire labeled 8 on the coil for cylinder 5
coil wire labeled 5 on the coil for cylinder 8

coil wire labeled 4 on the coil for cylinder 7
coil wire labeled 7 on the coil for cylinder 4

coil wire labeled 3 on the coil for cylinder 2
coil wire labeled 2 on the coil for cylinder 3

See if it will crank....

 

I think Daniel is correct regarding the possibility of bent valves. You can get an inexpensive compression test kit from Harbor Freight.
I bought this one...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94190

 

Sorry, I skipped over this part, the valves did get bent, but they have since been replaced. I apologize.

Thanks Dirty dave, I am going to look at the LTCC kit and I will set the gears like you stated.

 

Run a compression test to see where the engine is at...Initial valve adjustment may be too tight.

 

We adjusted the valves and determined that the car is not getting any fuel. I do have 48psi of fuel pressure but the fuel is not getting into the engine.

The fuel is getting to the injectors but the injectors will not open. We are stumped once again. It is 30lbs injectors from ford. They are all connected and the fuses are working.

Does anyone know of a ground wire that I may have left disconnected.

 

Sounds like the Anti Theft is in play. It won't activate the fuel injectors if the VATS/Passkey isn't allowing it. What year is your car?

 

Visit Shoeboxes site for bypassing the VATS to test this possibility.
www.shbox.com
http://shbox.com/1/pass_key.html
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#pass_key
http://shbox.com/1/vats_bypass.jpg

 

check for the small ground lead on the passenger side of the block just in front of the starter. Im pretty sure it's a ground for the PCM that is a primary ground for the injector driver section.

Shoebox? You around?

Dave C.