I would change the head bolts, but I don't believe that's the cause of your probelm in itself. I've known people that have re-used the factory bolts without issue, I certainly wouldn't recommend it, since a new set of bolts is only about 60 bucks. BTW I would highly recommend the ARP 12 point bolts, they are strong and you don't have to remove any springs to get a socket on the middle head bolt. Not an issue with stock springs, but if you go to a larger spring it can be a PITA. As far as the water in your oil, check out your head gasket when you pull the heads again, it should tell the story. Don't forget about thread sealant either as many of the head bolts intersect water passages, and that can certainly put water in your oil.

 

I don't beleive you would get that creamy look in the oil from fuel but anything is possible. The first thing I would do is to put a vacume tester on you fuel pressure regulator. I beleive you are going to find it won't hold. If the diaphram in the regulator tears you will suck major amounts of fuel into the engine and after you shut it off the excess pressure will drail into the cylinders and into the oil.

If you don't have a vacume tester, try this. Pull the line to the regulator and turn the ignition on. The pump will run for a few seconds and if the regulator is bad fuel should come out of the vacume connector on the regulator.

Good luck.

 

Is your car running hot? The same symptoms you describe remind of my old problem with a cracked cylinder head. Two pistons were dead because of water running into the combustion chamber, which made my car heat up, but because of those two dead holes, car would run way rich, all my plugs were pitch black, run rough, no power.

Check to see if your primaries are equally hot. You can simply spray water, if you have dead holes, the primaries will not be as hot as the others.

Good Luck and keep us posted.

 

Good idea. I will try this.

Brandon

 

The car is not running hot at all. It stays below 160 and i havent even run it long enough for it to really get that hot. I have brand new heads from Cmotorsports so i seriously doubt there is anything wrong with them.

Brandon

 

Even if the FPR is bad, how could the fuel get past the injectors?

Brandon

 

It will not, it would feed into the vaccum port.

 

Then where does it go from there? Could this still be a cause for the fuel in my oil or can i rule this out?

Brandon

 

Once inside the intake manifold, it could go anywhere. Perhaps it is being sucked in along with incoming intake air. Turn on your car, and disconnect the vaccum hose of the FPR. If it is not wet, then you could rule this out.

 

Ok will do.

I am also getting codes:

0027 EGR Soleniod Control Circuit

0033 MAP Sensor Circuit High

EGR codes were supposed to be deleted with the program i got from PCMFORLESS. Not sure about the MAP sensor. How do you tell if the sensor is bad or not?

Brandon

 

The (high) map fault code is indicating you have a low vaccum situation - this is a result of you running rich and is a byproduct of your engine running rough (missing) and inefficient combustion.

Bar - Map=Vaccum in inches. You must use a scanner to read this sensor. For example, if you have Bar of 30 and your MAP sensor reads 20 (high) you will have 10 inchess of vaccum. Which is low depending on the overlap of your selected cam. Purchase a mechanical vaccum gauge, hook it up to any vaccumm port, and compare readings. That is the only way I know.

You can grap Bar and Map readings from a scanner.

Good Luck

 

Cool thanks. Ill keep you posted and let you know if i need any help. Thanks so far.

Brandon

 

Ruled out the FPR. Gonna call PCMFORLESS tomorrow. Thanks for the help so far.

Brandon

 

Called PCMFORLESS and Bryan thinks that when i loaded my program into the PCM, for some reason the program didnt load right and the PCM is still running off the stock program. Therefore, with the 36 lb/hr injectors i have, the computer thinks they are the stock 24 lb/hr injectors and just loading the cylinders with excess fuel. I tried to load the program again and i got the car to start but i had to take the plugs out and put them on a wire wheel just to get them to fire (because they had so much junk on them from running rich). I let the car run for a bit and seems to be better but i am not all they way sure because i couldnt get one of the plugs out of the pass. side and it is backfiring alot. So i am going to try and get the plug out and go from there.

Can i use the tech II scan tool i have in anyway to help me with my problems? I should be able to go through the PCM and figure out if the program actually loaded this time by looking at the desired idle speed shouldnt I? Does anyone have any experience at all with a tech II that can help me through my problems. Afterall this was like a 7 grand scan tool!!

Brandon