This will be a N/A car....
Parts

30 over block
Scat 9000 crank
Scat 4340 I beam rods 5.7 or 6" rod (witch one)
KB pistons 425g ( will these pistion hold up to to over 500fwhp )
Or TRW make a forged thay weighs 460g
rings ???
bearings ???

will there need to work done to the block with these rods.....oil pan,

Is there any extra or hinden costs here that is sould be looking for

thx

 

Check out the tech link in my sig for a good bit of info.

Basically, it's going to come down to personal preference and what you want to spend.

I'm using that same crank & rods, which should be just fine for this. I went with an SRP piston though (403g).

Rings: Going to come to your personal preference based on what you research. There's no right or wrong (well there IS), but you know what I mean.

Bearings: Clevite, Federal Mogul, Kings Alecular...whatever you feel comfortable with.

There are lots of "hidden costs" that you didn't think about.

Bolts
Studs
Gaskets
Seals
Clutch? (I didn't check what trans you have)
Timing Set

Machine Work
etc. etc. etc.

Check out the tech link though. Should give you tons of answers.

 

The pistons will be fine. U beter have a Good flowing set of heads and a cam to match it i fu wana make thoes #'s

 

There isn't a nickle's worth of difference in a 5.7 & 6.0 inch rod (people will disagree).There is less of a block clearancing issue with the 5.7.You won't notice any HP difference.
I think you should get the BEST heads you can fit into your budget,along with intake system.From the filter to the piston-That's where the HP is.
You are going to need 36# injectors at least-depending on HP.
If you get an intake SYSTEM heads,intake,CAI,TB,Filter that let's the engine SEE 270CFM you can make that HP but 270 has to come from the filter to the piston (no LT-1 intake)and the standard K&N cone filter flows 700CFM a bit lacking.You need something bigger.58MM TB flows 1000CFM .

 

Thank you for being another voice of sanity in the continuing saga of "How Long a Rod Should I Get?". At this level, it really doesn't matter. While it's a very fine point, it is worth considering that the rod/psiton combo is usually a little lighter with a 6" v. a 5.7" rod. But at the level we are talking, it's a trivial difference.

Rich Krause

 

I have all the other parts in the combo, the injectors,TB,clutch..and so on.

Will these rods fit the block with out needing work done to the block.

What would limit this eng from sping to 6500+rpm

 

Don't skimp on machine work. Find a reputable shop that has a history of building top notch engines. You get what you pay for.

On that note, why not leave the stroker clearancing to the machine shop?


"6500+rpm"
Going to want a good flowing head and enough cam to get there. BTW, that's a bit more cam than some think... especially if you want to make power up to that rpm.

The bottom end is important but your power will come from the heads, intake and valvetrain setup. Good machine work and good oiling will keep the other stuff together.

-Mindgame

 

Heads, cam, or valve springs come to mind. All those can kill an engine from producing power that high.

 

Based on my latest experience, I have to say this is the most important part of the puzzle. If you've got some dip**** doing the machine work, you're going to end up having to pay to have it done over, or have a poorlybuilt engine.

Talk to the local speedshops and repair garages and see who they reccomend, and more importantly to stay away from. If you don't feel 100% comfortable with someone in your area, don't be scared to drive out a couple hours to somewhere that you know is going to do a good job.

 

Dave that srp pistion that is very light will it hold up..

Power rating..
Scat 9000 crank...600fwhp&7000rpm
Scat rods 4340 i beam...rating???
pistions...how much can a KB take


My overall goal will be to get close to the 500rwhp mark over time , can these parts hold up....

 

I'm going to try and not talk out of my *** here, so someone correct me if I'm wrong. These are just my opinions based on what I've seen and read and how I interpret things.

KB is a hyper piston right? "People" say the Hyper is a better piston for a well-tuned N/A engine because of the lighter weight. My preference is a forged though for the "what if" aspect. You don't want to end up a year down the road looking for more cheap speed, decide you want nitrous, and have to change pistons for peace of mind, or worse melt down your hypers.

The SRP's are a great piston and I have 100% faith that they will hold up to what I'm throwing at it.

The builders that I've talked to say the Scat 9000 is a great crank for this HP range and aspiration. If you plan on massive spray or forced induction, than forged is cheap insurance, but if not, put the money towards the heads/induction/valvetrain setup, where you will make power.

Your bottom end isn't going to make you power, (for the most part), just support it.

Not sure of the rating on the Scat 4340 Forged I-beams, but they're a forged rod, stronger than the 4130 or 5140, have a cap-screw head and good bolts.

As for 500rwhp NA, you're going to need a helluva lot of head, cam, valvetrain and intake.

I would bet the crank & pistons would be fine, you should get some more opinions though from builders with experience on the rods. Make SURE you get good rod bolts.

My $.02, I may need to make change.

 

I am not going to spray this eng!! I want it to be all N/A. I think i will be better off getting the car set up and getting real good at driving it and see what i can do N/A..

The spary will be the next eng

As for the 500rwhp it will be Gen 1 head and carb style intake and DD

But as for the parts just see there max level.