ok i have looked on shoebox and i am trying to adjust the valves with the motor running and when i start the car oil gushes out the back out the head like the a strem of water i did not know if that was right and do i need to get someone to help me or a remote starter or what should i do try and find someone around here to help me that knows what they are doing and it is not there frist time adjusting valves with the car running

 

I noticed nobody has replied, and I don't do it that way, but since you already have the valve covers off, why not try to adjust them with the car off.

It is much more accurate (although somewhat more time consuming) and a hell of a lot neater.

You can find directions on just about any cam manufacutrers web site (Comp-Crane) under installing a new cam or rockers. It will give you more peace of mind knowing it's done correctly.

You may get it done before you get a reply. If someone can bump the starter for you or you can turn the crank with a torque wrench and a socket.

Just a thought.

 

pull out the spark plugs, put the car in neutral, and put a socket on hub, it's pretty easy to turn over by hand.

 

With it running you should have a pretty uniform amount of oil coming out of all the pushrods/rockers. If only the rear or its squirting out at high pressure there may be a clog somewhere in the oil galley causing all the pressure to come out the rear rocker...is that the case?

You can make an oil catch out of cardboard to help contain the mess, make like a 3 sided valve cover with no top out of cardboard and slide the cardboard right down inbetween the springs and the ridge the vc sits on to catch the oil slopping off the rockers.

But, I agree, its much easier and cleaner to do with engine off and turning the crank by hand and watching for the associated valve events.

 

see when i adjusted them out side of the car before i put the motor back in i did that but now i think i hear a little valve chattter

what should i do about the clog bc it is only on the drivers side head that it comes out like that

 

Is there oil making it out of the front #1 cyl rockers at idle?
If the fronts are dry at idle, that may be part of the clacking noise, if they are dry most of the time, then it is for sure.

I'd say you'd need to at least take the intake out and do some investigating by removing some of the front lifters and seeing how much oil is coming thru the bores with a primer running the oil pump.
But before doing that, you may want to ask this question in another post to draw some attention of folks with more experience in this area then myself...especially if there is no oil at idle coming from the front ones, otherwise you may be ok, I've just never seen one gush oil out of the back one like you are describing.

For the oil to come out of the top of the pr, its only has a tiny hole in the lifter to pass from the bore into the lifter, and then make its way thru the lifter and thru the top needle hole, and usually by then, its little pressure unless that rear lifter is collapsing and squirting all the oil out of it each time up thru the pr passage.

 

Go to any parts store and get oil deflecting clips like this:

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Actually that can't be farther from the truth.

 

Well I guess I was wrong about adjusting the rockers with the engine off .

According to the above quote, the TRUTH would have to be that:

1) it is less accurate
2) it is much quicker
3) it is way messier

Who would have thunk it? lol

 

According to who? You? How is it less accurate?
There are ways to avoid the mess. There are even rockers where the oil port is pointed at the fulcrum.

 

I think we should you let you explain how your way is more accurate.

After all, you seem to very confident in yourself in your comment "Couldn't be FARTHER from the truth". Those are very strong and definitive words. That statement goes beyond a "NEVER or EVERY" statement. You're stating that all other methods used are better since the so-called traditional way is the "Farthest" from the correct way.

It's amazing that you don't even see the irony in your last quote. I'm glad you like doing it your way and I'm glad you have opinions about it.
God bless you!

And I'm glad you know how much pre-load you have on every lifter. That way, if you need to make changes, you know exactly how to fix it.

"Sounds" like you got a handle on it. Have a great day!

And thanks for the lesson, that's why I come here.

 

wow...
That's quite a statement there, you attempting to put words in my post which I did not state. Drama much?
I say it's the farthest from the truth because there is no truth with adjusting valves with the engine off being more accurate.
Perhaps to make sure we're on the same page I am referring to hydraulic lifters. Also any method on shoebox's website is absolutely fine. Whether or not one is more accurate than the other is highly debatable since they all have their ups and downs, however being able to adjust while the engine is running, while the lifter is traveling on the entire area of the lobe is a quick and easy way to get lash set up correctly. All valvetrain slack can be taken out of the equation with the lifter pumped up, which is how a lifter operates, right? While it's pumped up? That way you know exactly where zero lash is by both sound and feel (as long as you know what to listen for and how to find it by feel). When adjusting w/out the engine running one may have a tendency to over tighten when finding zero lash because some lifters may bleed down and the only resistance felt is the spring in the plunger. When the adjusting nut is not easy to turn by hand one may have to resort to using a wrench which makes it even more difficult to find zero lash since feeling resistance becomes dulled. Adjusting hydraulic lifters is not rocket science. Even if you believe your theory to be true a hydraulic lifter does not need a precise measurement down to the thousandth of an inch unless you want to stick with something as finiky as Comp R's.
Naturally this is all from my opinion from what I've done and have been told. Not sure about yours? Your claims seem pretty absolute. I'd like to read why. Go.

 

[QUOTE=SS RRR;5036163]Go to any parts store and get oil deflecting clips like this:

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku


QUOTE]

so these just clip on to the rr and stops the oil from comming out like that stream of water

 

Yes, but see my reply in your other thread.