LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

need advice for lt1 build

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Old Feb 12, 2009 | 08:43 PM
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OPies57's Avatar
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need advice for lt1 build

i have a 383 with -18cc dish pistons and 6 inche rods i had ported stock heads ready to put on however i recently came across some cash so i want to go with the AI 200cc heads shaved down .003 to up the compression and one of their custom grinds.

-now my questions are will my 93 pcm be able to tune this?
-will a walbro 255 be enough fuel pressure
-will the opti be ok
-how much power should i make with all the above and 11.2 compression

any other concerns you may think of let me know thanks.
i also have 42lb injectors pacesetter long tubes ported intake and a 58mm throttle body and 1.6 comp pro magnum roller rockers
Old Feb 13, 2009 | 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by OPies57
i have a 383 with -18cc dish pistons and 6 inche rods i had ported stock heads ready to put on however i recently came across some cash so i want to go with the AI 200cc heads shaved down .003 to up the compression and one of their custom grinds.

-now my questions are will my 93 pcm be able to tune this?
-will a walbro 255 be enough fuel pressure
-will the opti be ok
-how much power should i make with all the above and 11.2 compression

any other concerns you may think of let me know thanks.
i also have 42lb injectors pacesetter long tubes ported intake and a 58mm throttle body and 1.6 comp pro magnum roller rockers
I ran -13cc in mine with a zero deck, .029" gaskets and 56cc chambers to end up at 11.49:1 (static)
You may have to bring those chambers down a little to keep compression
up, but as long as you're in the 11.0-11.5 range, you have plenty of cam options.

Yes, a 93 PCM can be tuned for that combo. Ed Wright did mine.

A 255 is plenty for a H/C stroker even if you decide to drop a decent shot on top of it later.

The stock opti generally works just fine unless it's damaged or worn, in which case you often see it break up at high RPM.
MSD offers a cap/rotor kit that converts 93/94 optis to vented.
It's an easy and somewhat inexpensive ($150) upgrade to do while your motor is apart.

Power output really depends on the complete package.
With 200cc heads and a healthy hyd cam, you can expect to be in the 420-440 range.
It all depends what you are willing to tolerate as far as street manners and maintenance.
Old Feb 13, 2009 | 01:20 AM
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AI is claiming 480-510whp on pump what do i gotta do to get that
Old Feb 13, 2009 | 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by OPies57
AI is claiming 480-510whp on pump what do i gotta do to get that
Be willing to deal with a big Solid Roller cam.
You give up a little down low for big gains up high. Which leads to a big
gnarly idle, routine rocker adjustments and periodic spring testing/replacement.
Not something you'd probably want to drive every day, but there are a few hardcore individuals who do.

I wrestled with the idea for a while and eventually decided against the SR.
Mine's more of a street toy though, I like to be able to take it to work
when it's nice or take a nice long cruise with the local club.

If you want to go that route, I suggest you take a ride in a car with a big cam first.
Make sure it's everything you expect it to be.

Last edited by user 647483; Feb 13, 2009 at 08:11 AM.
Old Feb 13, 2009 | 11:54 AM
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how high of an idle we talking about if its gonna be like 1800 rpms idling thats a little nuts however a solid roller would be pretty bad *** and its not going to be for daily driver but the whole valve adjustment and spring testing is kinda terrible sounding i had a solid flat tappet in my thirdgen and that was miserable. what about the fuel pump
Old Feb 13, 2009 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by OPies57
how high of an idle we talking about if its gonna be like 1800 rpms idling thats a little nuts however a solid roller would be pretty bad *** and its not going to be for daily driver but the whole valve adjustment and spring testing is kinda terrible sounding i had a solid flat tappet in my thirdgen and that was miserable. what about the fuel pump

No, not 1800 LOL More like 1200-1400.
With an H/C 383, you really need a 255lph pump either way.
The idea being that it's going to run a lot rougher at the bottom end, but start pulling smoother as it reaches 2500 or so.

I have not personally owned or run a car with an SR;
many of the other here have and they'll likely chime in with advice regarding ongoing maintenance.


Here are a few notes from the advice Lloyd gave me when I asked about the SR VS HR
A solid roller will always make more power [VS a similar HR grind] but also require spring changes every 15K miles for most set ups.

A solid roller can go with more duration for two reasons. First of all the lash makes the valve see about 10 less degrees [A solid roller has at least .016" lash (up to .028") and that takes away from the duration that the valve sees] and also the ramps are faster so the "seat to seat" duration is lower on a solid roller that a hyd roller with the same @ .050 duration. . . .

[For Example,]
288/296 "seat to seat" and 234/242 @ .050 - hydraulic roller
288/296 "seat to seat" and 255/263 @ .050 - solid roller

A solid roller would need more spring pressure. Something like 225-240 lbs of seat pressure and 550 lbs open pressure.

[With the SR cam, we'd] move the power band up to 2600-7100 RPM and would run faster at the track if you plan on shifting this high but street manners would be a lil tougher. Solid roller springs do not last as long either.

If you wanted to do a solid roller, send the heads back and I'll set them up for a solid roller. A set of K-1100 springs, Ti retainers, locks and locators would only be $100 more than the set up you have right now.
Old Feb 13, 2009 | 02:07 PM
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well im gonna need some people on here with the solid roller setup to give me some testimonials because if im gonna drop 2gs on cylinder heads i want to make sure i go with the right combo
Old Feb 13, 2009 | 02:11 PM
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One important thing to do is to contact the shop you are buying the heads from and discuss your options.
Ultimately, they know more about what combinations work and which don't.
Hopefully Phil can give you some solid advice.
Old Feb 13, 2009 | 10:08 PM
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Well the real question is the 40-60 more hp worth the hassle?

I would do it if its a track car, for the street just go with a large HR setup.



But the choice is up to you. Goodluck.
Old Feb 14, 2009 | 12:23 PM
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think im going to go with the hr setup. think illl be able to hit 460 whp
Old Feb 14, 2009 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by OPies57
think im going to go with the hr setup. think illl be able to hit 460 whp
Absolutely, you'll probably want something in the 242/248 range.
Old Feb 28, 2009 | 12:27 PM
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with my experiences, I have learned to be a little more "reasonable" when estimating your future HP... Instead of being dissapointed why not be impressed? Guess 415rwhp so if it is any more you are happy...
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