LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Need Advice Building an LT1 383 w/6" Rods

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Old Feb 23, 2003 | 03:43 PM
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Lightbulb Need Advice Building an LT1 383 w/6" Rods

I just bought a '95 LT1 core and plan to build a 383 with 6" rods. I have three questions:

1) Does the LT1 have a 'special' crank, or is the crank the same as any 1987 or newer (one piece rear main seal) crank?

2) Is there anything special I need to know or do about using 6" rods?

3) Is anyone out there aware of a 'kit' I can buy that would include pistons, rings, rods, and crank already balanced and ready to be assembled into the engine?

Thanks so much in advance... I consider myself lucky to have an LT1 at all, let alone a 383 LT1!!!

Cheers,
Scott
Old Feb 23, 2003 | 05:55 PM
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Does the LT1 have a 'special' crank, or is the crank the same as any 1987 or newer (one piece rear main seal) crank?
The LT1 crank is not special, it uses the same crank as 87 & newer chevy 350s. However you will need to use a 3.75" stroke crank to get you to 383. Scat makes a good one (cast) that is reasonably priced and reputed to be good for 700 HP.


Is there anything special I need to know or do about using 6" rods?
You need to use pistons set up for 6" rods, in general all pistons are manufactured for specific rod lengths. The wrist-pins are located further up in the piston. This also results in the bottom oil wiper ring to be located such that it transits through the wrist-pin hole. This is not a problem as the piston manufacturer. has a very good solution for this problem. The Oil ring is pinned to prevent the ring gap from rotating over the wrist-pin hole.

Is anyone out there aware of a 'kit' I can buy that would include pistons, rings, rods, and crank already balanced and ready to be assembled into the engine?
Do a search for stroker kits and I'm sure you'll find what you're looking for. This question gets asked frequently.
Old Feb 23, 2003 | 06:41 PM
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http://www.worldisround.com/articles/15028/index.html

thats doing it yourself

your idea wont work enough to justify doing it
there is only so much room in the intake manfold
meaning you can only get so much air in there (exactly why ram air cant ram)

but if you compress it
Old Feb 23, 2003 | 07:09 PM
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1 - http://www.automotiverebuilder.com/ar/ar99928.htm
2 - do a search for rod length in advanced tech
3 - http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...threadid=80880
Trey are you in the right post
Old Feb 23, 2003 | 07:09 PM
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Originally posted by treyZ28
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/15028/index.html

thats doing it yourself

your idea wont work enough to justify doing it
there is only so much room in the intake manfold
meaning you can only get so much air in there (exactly why ram air cant ram)

but if you compress it
Wow, if it weren't for that picture of some old 'Supposedly' smart guy, I would have ignored your nonsense completely.

But instead I decided to reply with a

then all over your 'intake theory',

then at your 'compress it' theory, ( )

and finally thank you for your invaluable input.
Old Feb 23, 2003 | 07:25 PM
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sorry
wrong thread

*doh*

i meant to post it on the electric blower thread

what i was going to say was 6'' rods a good choice for NA / NA+n20

and you cant use a regular 350 crank
i forgot why, but you cant-
did the LT1 have lighter rods or pistons or something of that nature? different fly wheel?
somehting wont be balanced anyway

Last edited by treyZ28; Feb 23, 2003 at 07:33 PM.
Old Feb 23, 2003 | 07:35 PM
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Originally posted by JACGIII
Wow, if it weren't for that picture of some old 'Supposedly' smart guy, I would have ignored your nonsense completely.

i never made any claims to be a "smart guy"
a good idea might be to stop being a jackass
its obvious that post doesn't belong in this thread.
you have 11 posts and your already pissing people off.
Old Feb 23, 2003 | 07:43 PM
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Originally posted by treyZ28
i never made any claims to be a "smart guy"
a good idea might be to stop being a jackass
its obvious that post doesn't belong in this thread.
you have 11 posts and your already pissing people off.
Yes, I know the reply was in the wrong post.

Yes, I am a major Smart ***. If you know me in person, I'm a lot of fun to be around because I'm actually a very nice, very funny guy.

However, in writing, you can't hear my tone or see the grin on my face, and therefore I get myself in trouble like this by actually pissing someone off because they took my Smart *** comments personally/seriously.

I apologize if I pissed anyone off... I was just trying to be funny. I appreciate the tech info the post was originally intended to draw in.
Old Feb 23, 2003 | 07:45 PM
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Originally posted by JACGIII
Yes, I know the reply was in the wrong post.

Yes, I am a major Smart ***. If you know me in person, I'm a lot of fun to be around because I'm actually a very nice, very funny guy.

However, in writing, you can't hear my tone or see the grin on my face, and therefore I get myself in trouble like this by actually pissing someone off because they took my Smart *** comments personally/seriously.

I apologize if I pissed anyone off... I was just trying to be funny. I appreciate the tech info the post was originally intended to draw in.
thats why we have the , , smilies
Old Feb 23, 2003 | 10:34 PM
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Re: Need Advice Building an LT1 383 w/6" Rods

Originally posted by JACGIII
3) Is anyone out there aware of a 'kit' I can buy that would include pistons, rings, rods, and crank already balanced and ready to be assembled into the engine?
Combination Motorsports has a group purchase going on right now in the group purchase section of this board. There are 2 kits they are offering for the LT1. (Great prices too )

Last edited by n2oCamaro; Feb 23, 2003 at 10:55 PM.
Old Feb 24, 2003 | 07:40 AM
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In the new issue of Jeg's there are 2 kits from Eagle. $929 and $1179. They include crank, rods, pistons, rings, dampener, flexplate and bearings. They use 5.7's but I have been told they will switch them out with 6's. Also talk to Doug Herbert. With 6's you have to clearance the block at the edge of the cylinders where the rods will hit. Easy to do yourself. Careful of the water jackets. You need at least .060 clearance. Think about four bolting the block while your there. Only major cost to that is align boring. The install can be done yourself.

Hey trey, I like your avatar. Cracks me up. I got to find a good one like that.
Old Feb 24, 2003 | 06:49 PM
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Sorry screwed that one up. The 6" rods don't cause a clearance problem. The 3.75 stroke is what causes the block to have to be clearanced.

Had my heads up my oil pan
Old Feb 24, 2003 | 09:07 PM
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From: looking for a flow bench so Brook and I can race
Originally posted by badass383

Hey trey, I like your avatar. Cracks me up. I got to find a good one like that.



ps you know where that line in your sig is from?
Old Feb 25, 2003 | 05:33 AM
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When I heard it, was from a song. Forget the title and artist. Getting old you know. Luck I remember my name anymore.

I understand it was coined long before that. Again bad memory but something like an old Harley add? Do you know?
Old Mar 16, 2003 | 07:31 PM
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Originally posted by badass383
When I heard it, was from a song. Forget the title and artist. Getting old you know. Luck I remember my name anymore.

I understand it was coined long before that. Again bad memory but something like an old Harley add? Do you know?
Kurt Cobains suicide letter



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