I'm looking for 400wrhp NA non-stroked. Just wondering what you guys would suggest? Right now, I have intake and exhaust, with longtubes on the way Basically want to know what cam I should go with and what should be done with the heads to make 400rwhp in my daily driver? Is it possible? Thanks in advance!

 

I suggest you lower your sights a bit if you are looking to stay NA, stock CI and still drivable.

Not saying it can't be done. Perhaps others will differ.

Perhaps with good heads,cam. LTs and dynotune, you might get close.JMHO

 

You're trying to do it on a stock 350 non turbo non supercharged? With a full exhaust (LTs, ORP, Cutout) and massively ported and polished heads along with all the bolt ons (if you're on a serious quest this is where the little ones add up....like electric WP, airfoil, 1LE elbow, UD pullies, etc) should get you close. I have most bolt ons, still missing a few, and after my head work I plan on about about 350-360 or so. With more head work and a more serious cam you could probably hit 380-390 or so. Maybe. It'll be tough but I'd love to see you try

 

Its been done and then some with M6 cars, with an automatic though, going to be tougher. I made over 400 with stock rear gears and it was a daily driver at the time, as driveable as it gets.

I personally believe that bad programing is responsible for most of these "undriveable" claims, my car didn't even lope that much, it was actually a little dissapointing in that regard.

 

It can probably be done, but your going to need some good heads, like TEA or AI, then a cam in the 230+ duration.

 

good heads, a good amount of cash will help too. It can be done with a auto, hell I am almost there and I run 1.5 rockers and a auto. But you need to do you homework, and choose your parts and combo carefully for what you will be doing. Also expect a lot of crap to work out, nothing is easy.

Q

 

What exactly are you after?

May seem a silly question but the fact is that you can run low 12's with stock heads, cam, bolt ons, weight reduction, suspension and tuning. There are a number of guys on this board doing just that.
Or maybe this is just about making 400 rwhp? That's fair enough too.

Along with the exhaust and other misc bolt on stuff, you need good head work and a cam. The CC306 will get you there and there are a number of hydraulics in the 230 @.050 range that are proven to make those numbers. Not too difficult and should be very drivable if done right.

-Mindgame

 

Advanced Induction "Econoport" heads, GM847 cam, Hooker LTs and almost every bolt-on. I got 412rwhp on my daily driver. Stock bottom end with 75000 miles. The tuning was a little off, I'll be trying a MAF Translator this Friday at the dyno shop to see if I could get closer or maybe over 420rwhp.

 

I didn't expect so much optimism! I am really interested in doing this. I'm not saying that money isn't an issue, but I have a while to do this so I don't have to purchase everything at once. I also have another car to drive so I'll have plenty of time to work on the Z28. A bit more info on my car, it's a 1995 Z28 M6 hardtop. Right now all that is done is an intake, LM exhaust, 52mm TB, and MSD 6AL ignition, with longtubes on the way. Might as well start with the major components first, cam and heads. I saw someone suggest something 230ish+, do you think the 230/236 would suffice? Or would the cc306 be a better choice? Anyone make this kind of power with either of those? Or is there a diferent cam I should think about going with? I want to keep a much driveability as possible as well. For heads...I'm really in the dark here...What heads would yeild the type of power I'm looking for? Ported LT1 or LT4 heads? Or is there a completely aftermarket head I should go with? Be free with the suggestions, people! I want to get this underway as soon as possible!

 

My opinion is biased, but I dont think the cookie cutter cams are the way to do it. If your going to go all out, have a cam custom ground to your setup. You will like it in the long run, because it is specifically designed for your car.

Q

 

Ok, you're going to have to explain a little bit more to me, hehe. I'm not a complete LT1 dunce, but I figure I might as well ask if I'm at all skeptical instead of assuming
What are the advantages of custom grinding a cam? Where did you have yours done? A local place or an online place? What kind of specs would you suggest me having it ground to? And you mentioned it would be designed specifically for my car...Does this mean that the cam would have to be the last thing I do so that it can take advantage of my car? Or how exactly does the custom grind thing work?

 

Just wonderin , assuming its a really good driver , with a M6 , and tires that are streetable but hook up pretty well , what kinda 1/4 times could you roughly run puttin 400 at the wheels ?

 

with AFR220's, propper port work and a big cam-
shouldn 't be problem

stokers dont increase power that much

 

AFRs, I'll look into those. Know any good reputable dealers I should look into doing business with? How much do those usually run new? What about CNCs, Dominion, and the Econo-ort heads? Are AFRs the best bet of the bunch to get me 400rwhp?
Also, I've seen a few different people mention "proper" or "good" port work...Where do I get that done? I don't really know of any real good places around me(MD). Most of the shops around here don't know what they're talking about and try to play me for a fool(telling me things like headers aren't a good mod). Are there places online that do GOOD head porting?

 

I personally think it's all in the tune. If you have someone to properly dyno tune it, you'll be close....good, strong cam and a go tune and you should be right around here.....but like I said this is where the UD Pullies, air foil, etc..add up. Most people dont wanna do them but if you're on a goal then you gotta throw them in!!!