Hey guys. I FINALLY picked up my new Bird yesterday and drove it back to Casper, WY from Denver.

There was a terrible clunking when stomping the gas from a stop and each time it up-shifted.

Here is what I found today, which led me to perform my very first upgrade on my 95 Bird,which has a Corvette crate LT1 and
4L60e tranny:


Yikes!


I had a brand new Energy tranny mount bushing sitting around, for my third gen Camaro, so I installed it on my Bird. HUGE IMPROVEMENT!!! And the thumping stopped completely. Now it chirps the tires all the way up to the third gear shift point

 

Don't stop now!

 

Next thing you know you will be adding headers, new rockers, cam....

 

Thanks for posting guys. I have been a third gen Camaro nut for the past 5 years. I am excited to switch to a 4th gen Firebird.

It has shorty headers already and a 3" exhaust and a built 4L60e.

I have plans for the car.

CETA rear bumper, factory high rise spoiler/hatch, C5 Vette wheels, springs, Energy bushings all around, panhard rod, LCA's, gears, LTCC ignition, 3600+ stall, LE2 heads, intake and cam, custom tri-y long tube headers, 58mm TB, polished valve covers, custom coil mounts that I made, new front drive system with smaller alternator....the list goes on.

For now I am just happy as can be that the tranny mount is replaced and that awful clunking is gone. The guy who sold it to me failed to mention this problem to me, and he held the car for me for nearly 5 months, as I waited to have the money to ship it to Denver from Florida. That clunking sure was hard to miss once I stomped the gas. The seller had to know about it, but no big deal. Thankfully, it was an easy fix.

I'm going to take all the emissions stuff off (don't need it here in Wyoming) and get the PCM tuned for now.
I hear that can yield 30 more horsepower (the PCM tuning).

I already have the LE intake, 58mm throttle body, aluminum elbow, etc. I also have a forged internal 383 LT1 short block.

I am debating whether or not to put this into the Bird or just go with a head and cam swap. This 383 with 12.4:1 compression and a 244/254 .608 .608 110 cam would be quite the beast. The frickin heads are still down at Lloyd's shop in Texas, as I have not been able to pay him yet.

We shall see what happens.

 

I've heard horror stories about LTCC. I swapped to full MSD. I absolutely love it. Also 58mm TB won't do any good without the intake/ heads ported to match. IMO, start with CAI, then LTs with full exhaust, then do rocker/cam/tune all together. If you really want to make it move, call up Lloyd Elliot, tell him your plans and he will suggest what head package to get.

P.S. Removing the emissions don't add any HP, since all emissions are closed at WOT.

just my .02

~Nathan

 

Thanks Nate. I was still posting the post before your last post, and I finished it after you posted your response.

Check it out. I know all about Mr. Elliott I was going to swap the above mentioned 383 into my 86 IROC. I already have the Scorpion 1.6 roller rockers and bare machined heads (in Lloyd's possession). Just need to come up with the money to pay Lloyd. He's a heck of a nice guy. I sent him the heads and he finished the porting, milling, etc., and I hadn't paid him yet. He called me one day and said "Hey the machine work on your heads is done." I hadn't even paid him anything yet. I guess he loves his work.

What horror stories? I have heard only good things about the LTCC setup.

And I only want to remove the emissions stuff to clean up the engine bay a bit.

 

My 383 LT1 short block

Please....I don't want to hear "it's only a two bolt main..."

I know!!!!

-1997 2 bolt main LT1 block with all new plugs and bearings
-12.4:1 compression with 55cc combustion chambered heads (still safe for an LT1 running 91 octane fuel)
-block cleaned, clearanced, decked, align bored, etc
-bored .030 over using deck plates
-Studded mains (good for 600 horsepower, according to my engine builder)
-Brand New Cloyes roller timing set
-Mahle PowerPak forged and coated -5cc flat top pistons that came with rings
-Callies forged 6" rods
-Callies 3.75 stroke forged/nitrided 4340 steel crank (1 piece RMS)
-Rotating assembly and stock flywheel all balanced by Jerry at Jteam Custom Engines
-Pistons are .0010 in the hole (my own preference)
-Brand new Melling oil pump (standard volume so it doesn't suck all the oil out of the pan)
-New oil pickup and tube
-Brand new water pump gear/drive shaft bearing
-Stock LT1 oil pan

 

Here she is:

I was worried for 5 months that the car wouldn't look so good in person. It looks BETTER in person!! I actually like the victory striping kit on it way better in person than in the pics.

 

Feed the addiction

 

What "horror stories" have you heard about the LTCC? From my experience and the feedback on several sites, its about the best available. Bob Bailey's stuff is extremely high quality. But the average LT1 with some bolt-ons or heads/cam doesn't need the LTCC. A factory Opti/ICM is more than adequate.

I'd like to learn more.

 

I looked into it before my opti died. I don't know where it was, but apparently what I read was incorrect.

I prefer my MSD opti

 

You sure you weren't confusing it with the Delteq? That would qualify as causing "horror stories".

 

Oh heck yeah I will feed it.


QUESTION: once I delete the evap purge solenoid, where do I run that vent/evap line to? I want to keep the fuel tank vented properly.

Thanks to anyone who can help me.

 

Answered your new post on the last question.

 

I think you are correct, I think I'm confusing LTCC with Delteq. Again its been awhile since I've looked into it. Who had the system that replaced the Opti with an aftermarket optical sensor?