My V6 to V8 conversion, 56k warning
My V6 to V8 conversion, 56k warning
Full rear end lock up at 50 mph messed up my Z pretty bad. Pretty much everything under the car was destroyed. Picked up a v6 body for cheap and decided to put in some goodies while I was at it.
Old torque arm

Old rear, look at the top of the carrier where the pinion walked on it. Then notice the chunk missing out of the actual carrier itself. I believe the pinion nut came loose allowing the pinion to walk towards the carrier.

Picture of the engine bay of the shell

Taking the engine out of the Z

Frustrated the body is an inch too low to pull it out

Finally out

Everything out

Rolled the entire K member, engine, exhaust, trans as one piece into my garage

First valve cover pulled

Just a look under the other
Old torque arm

Old rear, look at the top of the carrier where the pinion walked on it. Then notice the chunk missing out of the actual carrier itself. I believe the pinion nut came loose allowing the pinion to walk towards the carrier.

Picture of the engine bay of the shell

Taking the engine out of the Z

Frustrated the body is an inch too low to pull it out

Finally out

Everything out

Rolled the entire K member, engine, exhaust, trans as one piece into my garage

First valve cover pulled

Just a look under the other
Taking off the heads

Down to the short block

About to remove the stock timing set, a lot of slack in the stocker

Next step is cam removal

Trying to get a close up of my front cam bearing, it was a little worn but not nearly as much as I expected it to be after 130k

Just a picture of the tops of the pistons before I took them out

Down to bare block

Cleaning up the heads

Goodies package one

Goodies package two

Down to the short block

About to remove the stock timing set, a lot of slack in the stocker

Next step is cam removal

Trying to get a close up of my front cam bearing, it was a little worn but not nearly as much as I expected it to be after 130k

Just a picture of the tops of the pistons before I took them out

Down to bare block

Cleaning up the heads

Goodies package one

Goodies package two
Freshened up bottom end, speed pro rod and main bearings, durabond cam bearings, new rings, new melling select oil pump with white spring, arp hardware everywhere

Heads on with beehive springs, 1.6 magnums, GMPP guideplates, hardened pushrods etc

Getting ready to put it in

About how high it needs to be without blocks under the rear wheels

Finally in

Heads on with beehive springs, 1.6 magnums, GMPP guideplates, hardened pushrods etc

Getting ready to put it in

About how high it needs to be without blocks under the rear wheels

Finally in
couple of comments, removing the front tires/wheels will give you more room to pull the K-member/motor out thus alleviating elevating the car so high, and, putting some old steel wheels under the rear tires to help elevate the entire vehicle will help as well. just a few of the things I do when I pull the motor out from the bottom - awesome job by the way
Things you will need for the conversion
V8 K member
Cherry Picker
Adjustable jack stand (Makes things so much easier)
Torx bits for the two bolts underneath the master cylinder
V8 driveshaft
V8 PCM
V8 trans
Metric sockets for the k member
Breaker bar
A dolly under the k member helps with wheeling it around
A creeper under the trans will allow you to push it without dragging
Some tips
Make it easier on yourself installing the trans cooler lines onto the trans before putting in the drivetrain, its nearly impossible to put them in with the trans in the car.
When installing the k member back in do so without the wheels on. It becomes extremely difficult trying to line everything back up with them on. Also there is a "nipple" on the k member that lines up with the frame. Before trying to install the bolts on the bottom of the k member line up the nipple to its proper hole then begin to bolt it up. It's also nice to have a low profile jack under the k member when reinstalling to raise or lower it to make it easier to line up the bolts
Make sure to label every connection that is taken off the engine to allow you to easily put them back on when needed.
The oil pressure sensor sending unit on the back of the intake is extremely fragile. When moving everything around try not to hit it.
Yes I reused stock pistons with new rings, for the setup I'm going to be running I don't need anything stronger. All of the taper and O.O.R. measurements were within spec. Factory crosshatch pattern on all eight cylinders after 130k miles. I did do a fresh hone on the cylinder walls though with the rings of course. Someday I do intend on turning it into a 383 and possibly boost it, but not for a while.
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