These are some tid bits of info that i have acquired and im posting them to help those who will be doing these removals and installs soon. You might want to copy and save it for future use.

Rear shocks- remove both rear 1/4 panels. Put down your back seats, Remove the hinges that were holding the back rests on the the rear seats up. You can now pull on the carpet to get to the bolts that hold your rear shocks in (Pull the carpet towards the drivers side if your on the passenger side and vice versa) There is a square piece that has been cut out of your carpet so you dont have to pull the carpet complete out to see the bolt holding your strut in. Remove the foam piece covering the bolts.

Use a wrench on the bolt while holding the stud with the vice grip to remove the nut. This is all easier to do while the car is NOT jacked up.

Jack the car up. make sure you support your car on jack stands underneath the lower control arms so the Springs dont fly out and kill you. Remove that lower bolt, shock will pop out..

To put the new one in- Slide the top of the strut in place. You'll most likely notice that the lower bolt hole doesnt line up with your new bolt.. Use your jack to jack up the shock while lining it up with the bolt hole.. Once its lined up tap the shock with a rubber malet and it'll slide right in.

Front Shocks- These are a lot harder to change. Remove your caliper and place it way out of the way or remove it completely. Slide the rotor off..
Once your get here you'll need a 2 arm puller.. A 3 arm will not fit. Get a medium sized 2 arm puller (height of your hand) and also a small one if u can. Remove the 3 castle nuts. 1 on the Steering rod, 1 on the top of the knuckle, 1 on the bottom of the knuckle.

Use the medium sized puller to seperate the knuckle from the lower ball joint studs. More than likely they will be on there pretty tight. Use the smaller puller on the upper ball joint stud. The medium one will barely fit... you'll have to compress the puller at a slight angle and do it very slowly while holding the puller in place or it'll slip off. Use the medium sized puller to remove the steering rod end from the ball joint/stud.
take out the Knuckle.

The Spring/Shock assembly is held together buy a nut that is not accessible yet.. so dont worry about it flying apart.
Remove the 4 bolts undereath the hood/ on top of the fender to free the top part of the shock assembly. THen remove the 2 bolts on the lower part of the shock assembly (these are attached to the lower control arm).
On the Drivers side you'll have to use a T-50 torx bit for 2 of the 4 bolts holding the upper shock assembly in place. You'll also have to remove the master cylinder. There are 2 bolts that are holding your master cylinder to your brake booster. The brake lines are metal and dont give very much but you should still be able to pull the mastercylinder away and out with out removing any of the metal lines that connect to it.

Once everything that holds the shock assembly is out.. Use your foot and press down on the control arm and the shock assembly will slide out..

Once the shock assembly is out and you want to change the strut..... well I highly recommend you have someone else do it. Its well worth the 20 bucks a piece to have someone else put your new struts in. You have hardly any room to work with to get that nut off... the nut and stud will be completely rusted (if you have high miles and or drive in the snow). And the spring compressors you borrowed from Autozone may not be up to the task of keeping your springs from flying off once u remove that nut... if u can even remove that nut.

(NOTE- YOU HAVE A LEFT SHOCK AND A RIGHT SHOCK, MAKE SURE YOU PUT THEM IN THE RIGHT SIDE. YOU CAN TELL BY THE ANGLE OF THE MOUNT ON THE LOWER PART OF THE STRUT).
When putting in the shock assembly you will need some spring compressors though... you'll have to compress the springs so you can swivel your strut into the proper potition so that the bottom of the strut lines up with the lower control arm bolt holes and the top of the shock assembly lines up with the 4 upper bolt holes.
Ideally, you want to compress the springs and align the bolts and bolt holes up while the spring assembly is out of the car.. Just kinda of stick the assmebly up there and eye it.
I had no problem puttin my passenger side in but the drivers side was a pain in the ***. Passenger side took 15 minutes and the driver side took 3 hours. I fought and fought with it. I had to put the spring compressors on the spring assembly while the lower portion was bolted in to the control arm... compress the springs then swivel the springs alittle in one direction so the top bolts would line up better. Then i have to stick a crow bar up the fender well to pry it over some more..

Make sure you install the assembly bottom to the top because its easier and you have more leverage to adjust it.

When putting the knuckles back on work your way from top to bottom. Its easier to install this way.

After that everything is cake.