new2chevy

Below are some pics of my LTCC coil setup.

QUESTION: (see pic directly below) From the new LTCC harness, I simply connect the two pink wires to the one pink/black wire on the ICM plug and the white wire to the white wire on the ICM plug correct? It looks like both the pink/black and white wires are on the same plug (ICM plug), and the plugs that plugged into the COIL are no longer used.

Thanks to anyone who confirms that I am correct.



Here is my setup: I fabricated my brackets correctly by using another LT1 intake that I have waiting to go on a 383















I'm also going to install the new fuel line kit from SpeedInc., to get rid of the fuel lines looping around the front of the engine bay.

slick1hunting

The pink ones go to the powered one that connects to the coil. Check it powers on with key. There is two wires there my colors didnt match directions yet was easy to confirm the powered one. The white ltcc goes to the b pinout on the icm. The connector is lettered. Mine was yellowish. This is the connection you can blow circuits in your box with so confirm its the b pinout. Full throttle has a tech person and can call them if needed. Be careful reading some of the forums for hookup advice as alot of experimenting has yielded a need to repair.

new2chevy

Thanks for your reply.

I had to switch coils

This project has been a pain in my butt, much bigger pain than I had anticipated.

I did not have the harness that plugs into the LS1 coils that are pictured above (GM part # 12558948). The LS1 harness is different than any other harness. I was bummed to discover this when I tried to plug the Vortec harness into my LS1 coils. It was then that I realized I would either have to spend $200 on an LS1 harness ($99 per side) or modify my existing setup. I chose the latter.

I went to a wrecking yard and got some Vortec 6.0 coils GM part # 12558693 with the brackets, along with the harnesses that plug into the coils. I have read that these truck coils are great for the LTCC mod.

I had to do MORE drilling on my custom brackets and also cut the ends off for clearing the alternator and hard fuel lines. The stock Vortec brackets would not mount to my custom made pieces that mount to my all-thread/aluminum towers that I made, so I further modified my custom brackets to fit these coils I also had to cut my aluminum towers and all-thread again, so that everything would fit and work properly. What a pain in my butt.

It seems that you really can't mess up on plugging the harnesses in to the coils because if you orient them so that the large white plugs are in the same location as they were on the factory brackets, they are automatically in the correct order. If you switch the harness to the other sides and keep the white plugs facing up like they were on the factory brackets, then #1 becomes #8 and vice versa.

And the LTCC harness is labeled "1357" on one white plug and "2468" on the other white plug.

Anyway, here is my finished product with the 6.0 Vortec coils, harnesses, and my custom brackets:






I had to cut my aluminum towers in order to mount the coil bracket to the OTHER bracket that mounts to the taller aluminum towers that I will all-thread onto the intake manifold.




I sure hope this was all worth it

new2chevy

OK got it all wired and grounded and everything and turned the key, and......


.....the mother****** refuses to start.

Any ideas??

new2chevy

Well the instructions must be wrong

The pink wire from the black plug on the COIL is fused with a 10 amp fuse, so THIS must be the wire that the pink wires from the LTCC harness connect to.

NOT the pink with black trace wire on the ICM plug.

I'll fix it later this morning when the sun is shining.

Wish me luck

new2chevy

She started!!

Here is a video with some installation notes for anybody who will be doing the LTCC conversion.

LTCC Conversion 95 Firebird - YouTube

I had to connect the two pink wires from the new LTCC harness to the solid pink wire that plugged into the COIL via the BLACK plug (NOT the Grey plug). The LTCC instructions were wrong. The pink with black trace wire on the ICM plug is useless for the LTCC. The WHITE wire on the ICM plug (the one that is below the black and grey COIL plugs), which goes to the white wire on the LTCC harness, was correct.

slick1hunting

Good deal. Notice I advised to connect the pink wires to the hot wire on the coil connection. There are two wires there so easy to find the correct one. The connection for the white wire is a little more difficult as on my 96 the color of wires were not the same. I did find that the correct wire in the four wire harness is the one labeled b and that makes that connection simple to check(I wished the installation instructions had included this) I read alot of misimformation and poor advice concerning the ltcc and alot of incorrect installs. What im learning is take a little more time and research if needed and look for tech support. Full throttle currently has tech support for the ltcc as it seems Bob doesnt respond to very many e-mail(may end up in his junk pile). I am really stating this info for any future people looking for answers as its a pretty easy install yet the info is hard to get unless your wire colors match the instruction. I am actually going to suggest a little paragraph on install help and hope full throttle and Bob will include it in the current installation guide. Im glad some of my frustration helps others as I had some issues with mine as well. Even followed poor advice once having it connected correctly didnt fire. I sent my unit to be tested which is also available and each unit is tested before its shipped. Connecting the white wire to the wrong circuit can and will fry part of the unit causing a need for repair or replacement. Another note is be sure to order the correct ends for any cut to fit wires. Another coil option is the ls7 or ls9 coils. The truck coils with the metal heat shield are advised against by bob. Also be sure you have good grounds for them or they wont function properly.

new2chevy

Thankfully my Vortec 6.0 truck coils are the ones much like the LS1 coils and they do not have the metal heat fins on the back of them. They just have that white back like the LS1 coils.

Mike at Full Throttle Speed told me to hook the pink wires to the pink/black trace wire in the ICM plug. He was wrong, and we were right.

97WS6SCharged

I use to run my coils in a similar location but adjusting valves is a major hassle with the coils there.

new2chevy

I just have to remove 4 nuts and they lift right off. No biggy. Plus I'm not going to be spending a whole lot of time adjusting valves (at least I don't think I will).

It seems to have better throttle response now, but I did change the plugs and wires out, and I gapped the plugs at .052 since I most likely have stronger spark now.

The darn car runs strong and isn't even fully tuned yet. My knock sensor pigtail is thrashed and not connected to the KS very well. This is probably why it pulls 5 degrees of timing at weird times, according to Datamaster. Still waiting for my knock sensor and plug to arrive in the mail. Been working on tuning this thing for a month now and keep finding weird things that the previous owner did or things he did not fix or make right.

I am wondering if dwell tuning be done with OBDI and TunerCat?

Can't wait to swap in my 383 some day, but I am am kinda having reservations about this, at the same time.

I am debating whether or not to do the 383 swap. I've seen better or comparable E.T.'s for guys with 350's with good head/cam combos and correct gears/stall.

I'm thinking of just going with LE2 heads and his 226 cam with a 3200+ stall and 3.73 gears.

Heck, that'd be plenty fast for a street car. Even a Crane 227 cam on unported pretty much stock heads would be plenty for the street here in Casper. I have the Crane springs and retainers and locks that would be perfect for the Crane 227 cam, or I could shim the springs up to 150 pounds and run a 219 cam from LE. A 219/227 would pull pretty hard, with my 4L60e and 3.73's.

Decisions decisions.

I don't know what I'm going to do

I wish I had my 03 SRT-4 still....I'd love to have a friend drive that little beast and race my Bird with me driving it. I'd probably lose....that SRT-4 put down 460 hp to the fronts on a 92 octane tune and over 500 hp on a race fuel tune (no, the SRT-4 was NOT stock).

I used to love walking Birds and Camaros and Vettes when I had that car. Oh well. I'll get my Bird running in the 11's some day soon.

new2chevy

My car runs very well, and I am pleased

Throttle response seems a bit crisper, and it idles nice and smooth.

The frickin' car goes sideways when I stomp the gas pedal but this isn't because of the LTCC....but it sure is fun

new2chevy

QUESTION:

Am I supposed to mess with any of the switches inside the LTCC box? I still don't understand what they are for.

I did not touch these yet.

I also did not mess with the rev limiter adjustment.

I left the yellow wire alone and kept the switches like they were when I got the box.

The car runs great.

Just making sure here.

1963SS

Check out this PDF for the switches and RPM limits. The switches are for 2 stage retard like nitrous stuff and how the rev limiter works.

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q...qDQUv1XzEl1Ubg

slick1hunting

The dip switches are for rev limiter and timing retard and the dials set the perameters for them. I believe one is not to be messed with. If your not running boost or spray then the rev limiter would be your only consideration. Be sure if your making adjustments you pay attention to the proper switch and then set the dial correctly. There are four switches and two dials if I remember correct with many adjusments according to position.

new2chevy

Thanks guys! I'll have to look at my box again and figure it out.

Coming soon: LE2 heads, LE Intake, 58mm TB, LE 219/227 cam, new Eaton Posi, 3.73's, rebuilt 10-bolt, Yank SS3600 stall, SS Tri-Y Longtube headers from Jerry Jardine ($1000 for these custom longtubes WITH ORY-pipe).

She should scream pretty good

I'll be using the Aeromotive "on the rail" FPR, too.