LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Is my LT-1 dead?

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Old Jan 14, 2004 | 04:19 PM
  #31  
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Update

I swapped the coil no help, thought I'd try simple & cheap first.

Scanned it and she showed good ol' code 16, bad low resolution...

Fuel pressure at schrader is good.

Swapped opti (the whole unit) it was definately shot, couldn't turn the disc inside, rust everywhere.

Swapped the water pump while was at it (don't want to have to do this again in the near future)

The opti key etc. all lined up good.

Fire it up same as before all this work she cranks very strong, sputters the whole way and stops cranking with a nice backfire.

All conections checked out etc. all seems like she should run real great.

Please guys I need new help/perspective/divine intervention here.

Thanks again.
Old Jan 14, 2004 | 09:04 PM
  #32  
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anyone?
Old Jan 15, 2004 | 04:16 AM
  #33  
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ttt
Old Jan 15, 2004 | 05:37 AM
  #34  
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Assuming now that you reset the code and after cranking for 15seconds, code 16 has returned.

The wires from the opti have a connector about 2 feet from it. Disconnect it at that connector and probe pin A which is the red/black wire on the side going to the PCM. Don't probe the connector side that goes to the opti. With the other lead on ground, turn the key on but don't crank the engine.

(1) If the voltage is less than .5 volts DC, either the low res. wire is open or grounded. Or the PCM connection is faulty or the PCM is bad.

(2) If the voltage is greater than 6 VDC, the low res signal wire is shorted to battery voltage.

If the voltage is between 4 and 6VDC, turn key off. Reconnect the connector and disconnect it at the opti this time. Now probe that connector just as before on the red/black wire with the power on.

See (1) or (2) above as before. If the voltage is 4 to 6 volts now, you either have a faulty opti connector or the opti itself is faulty.

Hope that helps
Old Jan 15, 2004 | 10:41 AM
  #35  
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hmmmm

check the compression on all cylinders? maybe its something bad....

just do the compression check, so if it is the motor, u dont waste money on other things trying to fix it....

just an idea
Old Jan 15, 2004 | 02:04 PM
  #36  
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Originally posted by slopokrodrigez
Assuming now that you reset the code and after cranking for 15seconds, code 16 has returned.
You nailed it on the head...thank goodness, the new opti is bad.
Thought I had a bigger mess an my hands.

I appreciate eveyone's replies, thanks
Old Jan 15, 2004 | 05:10 PM
  #37  
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Are you 100% sure you got all the wires on the right plugs and the right opti connections? I have to double and tripple check everytime I do my Opti, because I have my wires zip-tied together to keep them clear of my turbo, and I almost always cross some. It runs like crap when This happens.

Based on my experiences with opti's, I always bolt the opti up, and then test fire the engine without the waterpump or anything connected. If it starts, I bolt everything back up, If It doesn't I figure out why. Just food for thought.

Bill
Old Jan 15, 2004 | 05:51 PM
  #38  
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Originally posted by SMOKNZ
Are you 100% sure you got all the wires on the right plugs and the right opti connections? I have to double and tripple check everytime I do my Opti, because I have my wires zip-tied together to keep them clear of my turbo, and I almost always cross some. It runs like crap when This happens.

Based on my experiences with opti's, I always bolt the opti up, and then test fire the engine without the waterpump or anything connected. If it starts, I bolt everything back up, If It doesn't I figure out why. Just food for thought.

Bill
Thats exaclty what was done, a "test run" if you will. lead to opti & checked plug wires checked as well. The car acted exactly like it did when the original opti crapped out. Interesting, I took the old one apart, aside from all the rust spots the disc it self does not turn, it seems it was "burned" into the backing plate, there are scorches all over it, quite messy.

I appreciate your input, thanks
Old Jan 15, 2004 | 06:19 PM
  #39  
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You had the MAF connected when you did the test run, right?

That was another mistake I've made
Old Jan 15, 2004 | 08:28 PM
  #40  
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Originally posted by Stormman
You nailed it on the head...thank goodness, the new opti is bad.
Not a problem, just let me know if I can be of further help to you.

Dave
Old Jan 15, 2004 | 08:35 PM
  #41  
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Originally posted by SMOKNZ
You had the MAF connected when you did the test run, right?

That was another mistake I've made
Good thought as well, but yes I did
Old Jan 16, 2004 | 11:54 AM
  #42  
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Update part 2


Ok 2nd new opti is in and she started up & idles at 500-700 r.p.m.
But the motor won't rev past that. my fuel pressure is ok, pulled a couple of plugs and they are ok.

Keep in mind the air pump, water pump, temperature sending unit and serpentine belt not yet back in. The plugs have been swapped twice from getting all loaded up w/ fuel.

The car has been sitting around for a month in these frigid NY temps. When she was idling, substantial amounts of black smoke came out of exhaust.

Is iit a mattrer of all the loaded up fuel burning off or the mottor getting up to operating temp?

Any thoughts please?

Last edited by Stormman; Jan 16, 2004 at 12:52 PM.
Old Jan 16, 2004 | 01:40 PM
  #43  
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TTT

Last edited by Stormman; Jan 17, 2004 at 03:22 AM.
Old Jan 17, 2004 | 03:25 AM
  #44  
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Someone must have an Idea, TTT
Old Jan 17, 2004 | 09:04 AM
  #45  
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Do you have a after market ignition?Try bypassing it with the stock one see if that helps.Are you sure the opti is installed correctly?I live On long Island I would mind trying to help you get it going.Goodluck David My cell #516 790 5062
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