LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

My goal with the '95 Z28 I own is to make it a low 13 second car...

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Old Mar 2, 2004 | 04:45 PM
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warwickbass's Avatar
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My goal with the '95 Z28 I own is to make it a low 13 second car...

Although, I haven't taken it to the track yet, what's the quickest, easiest, and cheapest way to get there? I don't want to stroke the 350 or anything like that.
Old Mar 2, 2004 | 04:46 PM
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Xride's Avatar
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N2O
Old Mar 2, 2004 | 04:48 PM
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i second that.
Old Mar 2, 2004 | 04:52 PM
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Cheapest = Nitrous
Most reliable = Torque Converter, gears, headers, and drag radials.

Old Mar 2, 2004 | 04:57 PM
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Originally posted by LS1_03
Cheapest = Nitrous
Most reliable = Torque Converter, gears, headers, and drag radials.

**** Nitrous Oxide. Heh. The gears on there now are 3.23 and I have Positraction. If I were to change them, I wouldn't want to sacrifice the acceleration off the line, but I'd want to be able to pull quicker on the highway.
Old Mar 2, 2004 | 04:59 PM
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Headers, Hot Cam with 1.6 RR and tune, FIPK = 13.1 @ 109. I don't drag race much. Others could do better with this combo I'm sure.
Old Mar 2, 2004 | 06:44 PM
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MAC headers, 4.10 gears, CAI, 3200 stall, Flowmaster "cat-back", and tires.

Headers...$370
Gears.......$190
CAI...........$190
Stall..........$700
Cat-Back...$270

For the record, I went 12.82 @ 106 MPH on an untouched 93,000 mile LT1 with exhaust manifolds, so headers aren't manditory.

Mine had:
4.10's
ProTorque 3200 stall
Moroso CAI
Hypertech "generic" chip
Taylor 8 MM wires
Splitfire SF10D plugs
MSD "Blaster" coil
MSD 7AL-2
Weld Draglites
M/T 26x10.5" ET Streets
throttlebody airfoil
Flowmaster "Cat-Back"
Gutted cat

This was also a full-weight car with stock suspension and without an exhaust cut-out.

You can pay attention to all the "long tube guys" if you choose, but I personally wouldn't waste the time, money, ground clearance, and emissions legality for them.

Frank
Old Mar 2, 2004 | 06:55 PM
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Originally posted by warwickbass
**** Nitrous Oxide. Heh. The gears on there now are 3.23 and I have Positraction. If I were to change them, I wouldn't want to sacrifice the acceleration off the line, but I'd want to be able to pull quicker on the highway.
the bottle is only cheaper until you get some bad gas and the motor detonates on the juice. the gears will make it accelerate faster from all speeds. itll have just as much top end because it will use more of the overdrive gear. dont fear the gear.
Old Mar 2, 2004 | 07:08 PM
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Originally posted by 93turbo5oh
the bottle is only cheaper until you get some bad gas and the motor detonates on the juice. the gears will make it accelerate faster from all speeds. itll have just as much top end because it will use more of the overdrive gear. dont fear the gear.
After reading the N2O forum for several months I dont recall any blowing up unless they run too large a shot.
and I would estimate that everyone in there has ran thousands of runs with nothing more then filling the bottle.

I see more problems come from cams etc then N2O
Old Mar 2, 2004 | 07:13 PM
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Originally posted by Xride
After reading the N2O forum for several months I dont recall any blowing up unless they run too large a shot.
and I would estimate that everyone in there has ran thousands of runs with nothing more then filling the bottle.

I see more problems come from cams etc then N2O
so you are saying youve never had a bad tank of gas? its only a matter of time if you use pump gas.
Old Mar 2, 2004 | 07:31 PM
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Longtubes, CAI, Electric water pump got me low 13's at almost 108mph. BTW that was with a cutout on a 3in y-pipe and stock catback.
Old Mar 2, 2004 | 07:34 PM
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Originally posted by 93turbo5oh
so you are saying youve never had a bad tank of gas? its only a matter of time if you use pump gas.
I'm saying that regardless of what you do to your car something could always good wrong.

If your N2O is set up properly nothing bad will happen if you keep the shot within what the car can handle.

And NO, I have never gotten a bad tank of fuel, I buy fuel from stations that are busy, so its not the same fuel for 6 years.
Old Mar 2, 2004 | 07:47 PM
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Originally posted by Xride
I'm saying that regardless of what you do to your car something could always good wrong.

If your N2O is set up properly nothing bad will happen if you keep the shot within what the car can handle.

And NO, I have never gotten a bad tank of fuel, I buy fuel from stations that are busy, so its not the same fuel for 6 years.
I have never had a bad tank of gas either. I stay away from the smaller gas stations etc. Besides, even if you did get a bad tank, then you obviously will notice it. So dont spray for that tankful. Just wait and fill up again later. And if you dont notice that you got a bad tank of gas then its not gonna be that bad of gas to cause detonation. Besides bad gas blowing an engine from spraying nitrous is very rare. Actually i've never ran across it here but im sure its been brought up.
Old Mar 2, 2004 | 07:49 PM
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Originally posted by Robbie
I have never had a bad tank of gas either. I stay away from the smaller gas stations etc. Besides, even if you did get a bad tank, then you obviously will notice it. So dont spray for that tankful. Just wait and fill up again later. And if you dont notice that you got a bad tank of gas then its not gonna be that bad of gas to cause detonation. Besides bad gas blowing an engine from spraying nitrous is very rare. Actually i've never ran across it here but im sure its been brought up.
i9t happened to a buddy of mine. the guy who delivered the gas in the truck mixed up the 87 and 93 octane tanks. i dont run nitrous w/o race gas. but thats just me.
Old Mar 2, 2004 | 08:04 PM
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Originally posted by Robbie
Actually i've never ran across it here but im sure its been brought up.
Thats what I'm saying
but even with 87, well one, as soon as I drove away I would notice something was up (jsut like texas 90 for premium, I mean WTF) it just doesnt feel right.
and if your timing is retarded you should still be ok so long as your not spraying huge.

All he would need is a 150 shot max, and 87 with proper plugs, and retard timing 7 degrees you should run ok, I woulnd recomend it, but I dont think that blowing your engine would result.



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