got my 357 together, its on the stand with no oil pan on it,,has 6" eagle h beam rods,had my mains studded with an arp stud kit, the main studs are factory length, but with the longer or wider rods, whatever, they are going to shred my windage trey,,anyone else have this problem? i looked into getting an adapter nut and extending the stud, but don't wanna do that....i guess my only option is to notch my trey, but from the looks of that there wont be much trey left over to even make it worth while...buying one isn't in my budget,,i barely am squeazing this in...
thanks..i need to get this sh*t figured out tomorrow!
-Jason

 

I just bought a canton oil pan. It has a windage tray built into the pan. I just junked the factory windage tray.

Just some advice.

Mike

 

Is the stud kit designed for a tray? There are seperate part numbers.

 

well the studs are longer in the exact same place as factory, so i would assume yes ...
and i can't get a larger capacity pan, car is lowered...

 

You might consider trying the 400 stud kit then. They will be longer and allow for more adjustment. Excess length could be trimmed off if necessary. A factory tray is usually worth more power than the built in variety. You can set how close they fit for one.

 

engine is built and on the stand waiting for the oil pan to go on...

 

Every lowered car I have put a Canton pan on was fine...

Junk the stock windage tray, get a Milodon one and cut it to work around the pan and oil level sensor.

Bret

 

i used the 400 studs... U can buy them from Dal or Jason cromer.. I bought forged Eagle I beams and the longer studs allowed me just enough clearance for the rod bolts to clear the windage tray..

 

i had the same problem when i rebuilt my motor...i just added some washers there...

 

Common Problem

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...ight=clearance

 

well the engine is fully assembled...so swaping the studs isn't an option..going to -adjust- with a hammer tonight..i think i'll have to drill new holes..give it a try. thanks for the help
-Jason

 

I dont believe a higher capacity pan sets any lower. Atleast it doesnt look like mine does. It is just wider. I tried the studs also. This seemed to be my best alternative is why I went this way. It has its advantages, has baffles, a crank scraper and of course the capacity to hold more oil, and windage tray. I went tubular k-member at same time I added oil pan. But I believe that the pan is just wider. It flares on the sides, not deeper.

Mike

 

Try using the factory one with a stroker...lol.

I finally did like SStroker said and bought the full length Milodon Peice and their studs. A little trimming was neccessary , but it is worth it.

 

i dont understand why studs are not an option?? if its fully assembled just put it on an engine stand, turn it upside down and take off the pan... Remove 1 stud at a time and tighten back to spec.

 

cuz the studs are glued into the block..