A brief intro...

My name is Jeff and I began lurking around this site (and the ImpySSforum) several years ago. The goal was to decide how to get my home built D/D B-body in the 12's N/A. Now, 4 years and 80,000 miles since I built the car - I'm thinking of "freshining up" the LT1 and dropping it in a F-Body.

The engine parts I chose for the above mentioned B-Body...

- LT1 Alum's (stage 2 Combination Motorsports)
2.00/1.56 valves if memory serves
- CM/COMP CAMS grind
.536/.544 224/230 (I believe 112lsa)
- .029 B-body head gaskes (Seth quoted 11.2:1 CR)

- COMP CAMS steel 1.6 RR's

- BBK 52mm TB

- SLP Eq. Length Shorties

- Stock intake (gasket matched only)

- SVO 30# inj. & F-body MAF

- All of this sitting on a stock low mileage F-body short block with Clevite rod & main Brgs.


I only took it to the track one time and my 4400# (w/driver) B-Body with a Yank 3000 and 4.10's went 13.30's at 103mph (2.00 best 60'). This was with a mail order tune (by Herter) and obviously poor traction.

There is/was potential to go faster, but I quickly became content and haven't done anything but play with the shift points (LT1 EDIT) since then.


Finally my question...

What would you think this combo is capable of in a F-Body? I'm thinking since the motor will be apart again - maybe a bit more aggressive cam. That and a good tune - I should see some mid/low 12's.

 

What track do you run at?

In good weather my Caprice went that fast with smaller cam, stock iron heads, less stall, less gear.
Leads me to think you are in a warm climate or at elevation both of which will make it a little harder to go fast.

Honestly heads are where there have been BIG advances in recent years, the cam has enough duration though may be lacking in other specs. DO NOT be too quick to ditch it for more duration.

 

Just a reminder that in your sig you mention being a record holder. Prolly didn't do that on your maiden voyage down the track, right?

I don't have a home track. I went to Milan Dragway in S.E. Michigan (approx 600 above sea level) one time and made 4 passes on a 60*F day. I suspect that if I wanted to keep messing with the cal (still runs pig rich at WOT), ice down the manifold, put some DR's on it, go to a track that hooks, and practice, practice, practice - then yes, much more potential in there.

The reality was, and still is, I needed a reliable D/D. Not looking to spend the time and money on tranny and tire replacement just for bragging rights and some 10ths.

So my heads are dated? Even if, what do you think my engine combo is capable of in a F-Body?

 

every 100 lbs will be 1 tenth so you should see 6-8 tenths right there depending on what F body you go to.

94 stripped down, roll up window hard top Z28 will be closer to 3600 lbs with 200 lb driver.

97 T/A with ground effects, hideaway head light, big *** wing on back, electric setas, locks, windows, 12 disc CD changer, etc will be 3820 lbs with 200 lb driver (mine weighed this anyway).

This puts you at 12.5-12.7 or so.

Light wheels, weight reduction etc will effect things even more.

The MAF, 1 3/4 or 1 7/8 headers and exhaust can make a lil more power on a F body if you are using a B body MAF, 1 5/8 headers and small exhaust. This can be 1-3 tenths also.

Might be at 12.3-12.6 or so.

If you can get a better 60 ft (1.7x), you can shave a few tenths and be in the 12.0 range.

All of this is just "on paper" but should be able to do this in the real world too. Just takes time, $$$ and dedication to get things right.

If you have 3.42 gears and that 3000 stall while shifting at 6200-6300 RPM, that is about the right duration to use on cam.

I would only go bigger if wanting to spin more RPM.

Lloyd