--Well I have had a code 16 and 36 popping up and I know that those are the opti codes, but I just had that replaced about month ago. Also I have a code 18 coming up but I have narrowed that down to injector #3. I have also had an EGR code come up, but I can't remember the code off the top of my head.

Before I have had any time to cure those problems I have had a code 51 which is a faulty prom calibration code come up. I really don't know what to do about that one. Yesterday my car was acting very strange and it would shut off after about 5 mins of driving and then it would be difficult to start but when it would finally crank up it would run fine. So I decided to reset the computer to see just which codes were coming up from the probem. After the first time it shut off codes 16 and 36 popped up. Then the second time codes 41, 42, 46 and 51 all popped up.

What do you guys think could cause all these codes to come up? 41,42,and 46 all have something to do with the VATS system, isn't there some way to bypass this or can I have it programmed to run without it, because I was planning on having maddwolf tune my computer for me anyway.
Thanks as always.
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Well I thought I had found one of my problems , the teminal on the coil was corroded extremely bad. So I changed the coil wire and coil with one that I had on my other car which worked about a month ago.

After that I installed the SLP Fan switch from the other car also and did the TB bypass while I was at it. Well then I went to crank the car up which it had done before I started working on it to pull up on the ramps, and now the car will not crank at all. The engine turns over but it doesn't attempt to start and the RPM's don' t change at all while trying to crank.

Well I have tried the following.
* I changed the plug that connects to the ingition coil module
*I installed the old coil back on the car
*I cleaned all the grounds on the stud on the coil and made sure they were connected
*Cleaned the grounds on the starter
*Removed the Fan switch completely
*Tried both coils again
*I tried my extra PCM that i know works
*I changed both battery terminal bolts
*Used test light to see if there was any spark from the coil (none)
*removed the washers I was using to space the coil from the head
*Then I followed the Chiltons diagnostic procedure when there is a no spark condition *there was no spark at the coil *A and D ports in the ingnition control module connector both showed 10 or more volts * When cranking the B port showed right at 4 volts * I haven't tried the last step where you are supposed to connect the test light to the + side of the battery and touch the c port in the connector but I will do that after work today. Well it lights up the light, but that means that it should be either the harness or the ignition module.

As far as I can tell the tests lead me to believe there is an open ground circuit somwhere on the car but I cannot figure out where it may be and how I could have disconnected it since those three things were all that I did. The other thing the tests in Chiltons says it could be is a bad ingniton coil module, but I don't see how two modules that were working shortly before could have gone bad that fast.

I am stumped...

 

Check the connector at the opti.

 

Is that where the Ignition module connector was supposed to be checked from? I just took the plug out of the ingnition module and checked the harness that was connecting to the module. Or is there another way to check the connector at the opti?