Maybe I missed something, why did you want to move it? Getting rid of the A/C?

 

What all did you have to do to get the hard line to connect back to the PS pump? What does the bottom bolt on the alt connect to?

Thanks a bunch.

 

Only problem w/ that is the factory bracket will crack under load. I know from experience as that idea had been sold through Speed Specialty before the designed a whole new piece and relocated the alt onto the driver side.
I still like the idea but it doesn't take much for the material to crack unless you have someone fab up a SS piece.

 

Where exactly does the crack take place?

 

Right above the bolt that holds the PWR steering closest to the TB. I may even have some pics still of it to post later today or tomorrow.

 

i don't understand the point...not to say that you didn't do a good job, i just question the motive to move the alternator and spend so much time and effort for a simple relocation.
it would have been so much easier to just buy a a/c delete pulley and let it be. i relocated my alternator with my home made madman's relocation bracket that deletes power steering and a/c. talk about cleaning up an engine bay.

not trying to be an *** hole, i was just wondering what the thought process is, i think i'm missing something

 

never had to pull the Passenger side VC between rounds of bracket racing!?!?!
And then miss the call for next round b/c you trying to put back on the alt....
There are other reasons but I like getting rid of all the weight, hence why nothing is left but the alternator mounted down low. others do it for some other reasons.

 

Yeah man try to get some pics or a better description. I can see how the top one is mounted fine but can't really envision the bottom bolt. Has this held up for you alright?

Shon hit the nail on the head. Pulling the alternator to lash valves is a SOB. Also would like to clean up the engine bay and be a little bit unique while doing it.

Really doesn't look hard to fab up at all plus I just threw a rod through the block so I've got some time to work with.

 

Now he can run tall valve covers, and that alone is well worth the hassle of moving the alt. I have the exact same setup, but I also welded an extra piece of aluminum into the bracket where it's thinnest so she doesn't break over time. Everything's been working great for 6000 miles now.

 

Contra, did you use the lower PS pump bolt to bolt that piece of steel down too? Did you add the extra piece of aluminum on that run that is directly below the dummy pulley? Great pics man.

 

Yep, lower PS pump bolt is what I used. You can sort of see the welded aluminum in the first pic--above the top and around the right side of the alternator...below the idler pulley like you said.

Thanks!

 

haha Nice reply time too! How tight is clearance between the alt and the body in that pic?

 

Really tight, after initial installation I used an angle grinder on one of the alternator's three "humps" to make sure it never, under WOT torque, moved and impacted the body. Originally it hit every once in a while, and false knock is no fun. Currently there's 1/4" of clearance.

 

One more question. What thickness aluminum did you use to box the acc. bracket and what thickness steel did you use for the top alt mount?

 

Here is the one I made on my car awhile back.


You can see it in this pick as well barely but the alt is different it is a smaller case than the stock one but still 140amps.