The blue looks like copper sulfate. Sulfur comes from a gassing battery.

Almost looks like something was leaking past the seal in the harness connector tower.

 

Results are in, I'm NEVER buying an MSD crap and rotor ever again.
My car always had a wierd stumble from day one from when I installed this kit.
I put on a GM cap and rotor kit with the rotor having aluminum rivets instead of the plastic.
It runs smooth as silk. I goes right to redline and keeps going for more. No more stumble at 5900-6000rpm
Day 4 with an attic fan blowing on it, and that piece of crap is still wet. WTF
Btw its not oil.
I'm calling MSD in the morning, they are going to get an earfull.

 

This is obviosly not a problem with the msd cap and rotor so I don't know why you are blaming this on them.

 

...

 

MSD's response should be pretty interesting. I wonder if it will sound anything like a dial tone.

 

You never know.
It never ran right from day 1.
It could have been contamination from day 1 from the factory.
I have seen wierder things happen.
I heard this same responce over and over from mechanics and other people:
"WTF, never seen that one." "Or did you kill a smurf in there?"
or ever better "you feed your car Gatoraid?"
I have been doing this kind of work a long time.
I have never seen this happen to a cap and rotor ever.

 

If it is, I will never buy MSD'S products again if they hang up on me.
You don't spend $175.00 on a cap and rotor kit, have it go bad on you 5months later because of some freak thing and NOT have a reason.
Almost forgot, its day 5 and its still wet. 2 days with a fan blowing on it and still wet?

 

I would think you would have noticed if the cap looked like that when you put it on.

The cap is obviously contaminated. If you were running a stock opti it would have done the same exact thing. What does it still beeing wet have to do with anything? Like I said contamination is not MSD's fault.

 

When I made my statement, I was also assuming you would have noticed if the cap & rotor looked like that prior to installation. But, I've never installed a cap & rotor, and you know what they say about assumptions.

 

I've never had this problem. NEVER
Iwent through 3 so far and the one I chose that was an aftermarket was the cap.
You tell me.

 

These are the rivets that hold the metal rotor arm onto the plastic rotor base? Since when has GM used aluminum rivets? I've always seen plastic rivets on these so i'm a little suprised. I've seen more than one busted up GM rotor that almost came apart because of those plastic rivets.

 

So explain to me how it is MSD's fault that the cap became contaminated with a forign substance?

 

No, you drill out the plastic rivets and install aluminum rivets in their place.

 

Let me contact MSD and lets see what they say.
Brass is a great conductor but horrible around even the slightest moisture.
Add ozone and you have a problem. I would not be surprised if they say these are not recommended for DD use.
Almost forgot, the cap is still not dry.

 

Aren't the MSD caps molded in red?




And why does the terminals in the black cap look like they are tin plated?

And why does the left edge of the cap above the rotor look like it was melted? If this unit was over heated and it caused some sort of resin to flow. That's not MSD's fault.

If I were you I would test the effect of the crap you used to seal it on an uncorroded terminal for few days before you show your A$$ to MSD

And notice some of the contacts in the black cap have no trail of fluid leading up to the contact. It's simply on the contact.