LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

motor mount install

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Old Oct 11, 2006 | 07:16 PM
  #1  
itzkwik's Avatar
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From: edmond,ok
motor mount install

i need to replace my mounts , i have hooker long tubes and was wandering what the easiest way to swap the mounts is without having to get too extensive
Old Oct 12, 2006 | 10:21 AM
  #2  
Injuneer's Avatar
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From: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Re: motor mount install

Very difficult to answer a question like this without knowing what engine/model year you are talking about.......

Add a "signature" with basic info about your car - year, model, engine, tranny and any major mods. Then I can move your post to the correct forum.
Old Oct 13, 2006 | 06:18 AM
  #3  
itzkwik's Avatar
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From: edmond,ok
Re: motor mount install

lt1 96 formula, sorry if i out it inthe wron forum , new to the internet scene
Old Apr 27, 2008 | 10:56 AM
  #4  
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searching for same question... where do i jack the motor up when changing mounts.

Instructions say NOT to jack by crank or oil pan... i've always used oil pan with a piece of wood under it (spaning the entire pan). I've done this to a mustang and a cavalier.
Old Apr 27, 2008 | 01:23 PM
  #5  
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From: Cypress, TX
Originally Posted by postalbunny
searching for same question... where do i jack the motor up when changing mounts.

Instructions say NOT to jack by crank or oil pan... i've always used oil pan with a piece of wood under it (spaning the entire pan). I've done this to a mustang and a cavalier.
I've done it that way with no issues (on a number of vehicles). I'm sure
whoever wrote the instructions are saying that for liability reasons,
because there will be someone that uses a jack with a 1" OD pad and
lifts the engine by its pan and ends up creasing the pan.

At the time I replaced the engine mounts, a tranny wasnt in place yet.
I used a floor jack just under the pan (just inside its edge),
with a piece of wood that spanned the pan's length. I removed the
through bolt, jacked the engine up just a bit, then removed the 3
bolts (driver's side) and pulled the clamshell out. I opened up the
clamshell, took out the bad mount, installed the new one, then
bolted the mount back up.

On the passenger side (my car), the design is a bit different than the
driver's side, but the method to pull the clamshell out and re-install
it is the same.

With a tranny bolted up to the engine, you will want to want to loosen
the bolts securing the tranny mount, since that will be the pivot point
when jacking the engine up on one side (even just a little bit).
Old May 1, 2008 | 10:54 AM
  #6  
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I got the drivers side on in ok... was a pita getting the main bolt through. Appears to have helped with the pacesetter mid-tubes rubbing on the steering shaft. The knuckle still rubs.
Wish me luck on doing the passenger side tonight... not sure if it'll help with the issue, may end up taking the driver's side out and denting it in... only need about one more cm of clearance.

Wish i could move the steering box over 1 inch.
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