LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

MOST limiting factor on my 383??

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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 09:34 PM
  #16  
Stl94LT1's Avatar
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Some of this thread is confusing, and I hope I'm not repeating what someone else has already stated.

You have to run OBDI knock sensors with an OBDI PCM. The LT4 Knock Module can be ran with either OBDI or OBDII PCMs.
Old Mar 17, 2008 | 10:24 PM
  #17  
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Ya, that is the understanding. I have the OBD1 knock sensor, and OBD1 computer.

Tuning out the knock sensor would make me uncomfortable considering I built the motor, and would like to keep it...at least for a few nitrous runs. I am very close to deleting it... but what if the knock is real? I have run race-gas and the knock didnt go away, pulled timing down bigtime and it didnt go away. This pretty much means it isnt real (to me).

I mainly want the knock sensor for when I start tuning myself. I guess a wideband o2 set-up is just as good/better.
Old Mar 18, 2008 | 08:52 AM
  #18  
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It is pretty easy to overtighten knock sensors, which can cause false knock. Torque setting is only 14 lb/ft.
Old Mar 19, 2008 | 04:45 PM
  #19  
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OK! Who knows a place I can buy an LT1 knock module. I tried calling the person that Dal left in his place, but I have been at work from ~7:30 am till about 6pm every day now, and I cannot get in touch with that guy. Anyone know a place? I just need an Lt1 knock module, how hard can this thing be to find?
Old Mar 19, 2008 | 06:00 PM
  #20  
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Check your PMs
Old Mar 19, 2008 | 10:54 PM
  #21  
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You need an LT4 knock module, not LT1 knock module.

Your knock is likely in your tune. Get that thing on a dyno and get it figured out.
Old Mar 24, 2008 | 08:56 AM
  #22  
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I have an LT4 Knock Module, have an LT1 knock module shipping. Supposedly, there is issues with some LT4 knock modules and an OBD1 computer. I will know for sure by this weekend. I know the knock is not the tune, I had it on the dyno and it was like definitly rich the whole way through. I also put in race gas to see if the knock went away or changed at all, and nothing happened. These 2 things mean the knock is not in the tune.

Any other suggestions? The LT1 knock module will be in this weekend and I will update this post.
Old Mar 24, 2008 | 01:43 PM
  #23  
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Ive had an LT4 km in my obd1 for years with no problems.

I show a little knock retard from time to time (7 driving, 5 at wot at max), but the guy who tuned it said it wasnt really pulling timing as he was dataloging everything and it showed fine. There is no knock, and no timing pulled, and it runs great. Im fine with that.
Old Mar 26, 2008 | 09:00 AM
  #24  
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Well, I am very happy that I got this LT1 km from a board member. I logged some preliminary tests as I got home from work about 8pm and had a few beers, but it looked like the knock issue is MOSTLY fixed. There is still 5 deg of knock at idle, but once you go above 1500 RPM or so, it goes to 0. I was just sitting in the garage and have yet to road test it yet, but up to 3000RPMS 0 deg knock and my timing is up to 35 or so. This is the first time since my new motor that I have had that much timing at any RPM. Hopefully it all runs the same on the road, I will check it tonight. I did start the new motor (year or 2 ago?) without one of the grounds connected right and *may* have shorted the km? That is the only explanation I can think of for why my LT4 KM was reading knock at this time.

So now, only knock at idle to 1300rpms or so. Sounds like a vibration issue to me too. I will try and take it back to track ASAP to see those new mph's
Old Mar 26, 2008 | 04:39 PM
  #25  
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Glad you got the KM and glad it seems to have helped
Old Mar 26, 2008 | 04:50 PM
  #26  
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You are the one that sent it right evilundisguised? I didn't want to post your real name on here. I appreciate the quick shipment and all that. I will post up later tonight after I do some data logging while driving.

Thanks again!
Old Mar 26, 2008 | 06:12 PM
  #27  
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Yup it was me, no problem. Good luck
Old Mar 27, 2008 | 04:33 PM
  #28  
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Injuneer, I have PMed you.

Ok, after logging a run to work today, I realized that the knock count is MOSTLY increasing at idle or near idle conditions. I added a column for knock difference and except for a few occurances, the differences are almost all inbetween 900rpms and 1300rpms. I was hoping someone would take a look at this and make sure I am not making a bad idea by tuning out the knock retard for now (max knock retard = 0 at all RPMs should do this right?) If anyone could take a look at this (I have been staring at it for a few hours now), it seems that I should just tune the knock out. Anyone? I may start a new thread about this if replies are lacking... NHRA is in town this weekend so I probably cant hit up the track this weekend, but maybe a dyno?

Also, what kind of Timing are you guys running with High compression N/A motors, my tune right now has it somewhere near 36-37 near redline, and I think that is a little high. This is still a mailorder tune, so I need to fix the issues before I drop the knock sensor just incase.
Old Mar 27, 2008 | 04:58 PM
  #29  
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Since nobody else seems to be answering the RPM issue...

Lots of 4th gen F-bodies have tachs that read a few hundred RPM higher than the actual RPM. If your clutch was slipping, I think you'd know. There's a distinct feel with that.

Get an aftermarket tach, or some kind of scan tool that can show you a digital RPM readout from the PCM.
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