okay so after tons of researching ive eventually decided to go with a full rotating assembly, instead of buying things independently. Heres what the engine is going to see just street use and 91 octane, itll stay N/A. heres some new questions.
#1 with my stock heads should be about 58cc i think, what Compression ratio would be about right to run on premium fuel without knocking, i know the LT1 is 10.4 to start out should i try to stay around there, or can i go a little higher?
#2 im still trying to get more opinions if people have problems with cc305 (i think its large base from what im hearing) like cams clearing the rods on strokers.
#3 will Kevko SB Chevrolet Drag /Street Oil Pan work with in a 95 f-body
#4 can i go with an internally balanced kit?
thanks for everyones help and im sure there will be more q's

 

Do a search for Dynamic Compression Ratio (DCR). You can hang around 9.0 DCR with a good tune. Static compression ratio is an ok gauge, but doesn't get you all the way there.

It really depends on the rods. I would think that they might have to be clearanced tho. I've heard a lot of people commenting on Eagle products needing to be touched up a little before installing.

Don't have a clue

Yes, just make sure your flywheel is neutrally balanced.

 

id like to use the DCR method to figure out my compression, but i cant find the full specs on the cc305 cam right now, i can only find them at 50, and ive been told those dont work. so i thought maybe i could get a guide to see if it would aprox work. thanks for the advice.

 

My view... Let a machine shop balance it, you may be throwing $200+ out the window to have it balanced before hand.

My new build will be almost 12.0 static and run on pump gas.

My eagle h beams cleared my cc306, so you should be fine.

No the kevko pan won't work, but if you are ordering where I think you are (pm me) there are some things you need to know about that 357 eagle kit. (It is the one I am using)

 

Your stock heads are 54CC's stock and have been cut twice.Depends on your cam. I run 13/1 on pump gas.

Quit worrying about the cam and grind the rods or get a small base cam.

 

Stock oil pan works fine.

 

I agree the stock pan with the stock baffle is a fine peice for anything short of all out specific racing.

I used the Eagle I beams with the GM 847, ccXE 230/236/, ccXE 224/230, and they cleared all three cams without modification.

I bought a Milodon windage screen and main stud kit and clearanced it to clear the 383 and tapped the pan in a few places for the studs to clear it.

 

okay so by popular demand ill quit worrying about my cam and just hope that i can grind the rods enough to clearance that cam. also ill stick with the stock pan, i just need to find a new windage tray and arp bolt kit to work with it. any advice on this? thanks again

 

The ARP set for the 400CID

 

okay so windage tray issue solve now too, great im gettin some things figured out you just have to give me some time to get things through my thick skull now im still trying to figure out what cc of piston "relief" i should get to try and deal with my compression issues. if someone could point me too a calculation page or something along those lines to help with this that would be great. thanks again for everyone helping me out.

 

You need to consider piston-to-valve clearance. That's a function of gross valve lift, how much you milled off the heads, the gasket thickness and how far the piston is in the hole.

If you wanted to reduce CR, you would "dish" the piston.